I found Upper Cumberland almost by accident. My original quest was to find the graveyard filled with McCormicks, my Irish ancestors, at a forgotten little hillside cemetery in the backwoods of Tennessee, the most recent stone more than 100 years old. After winding along a picturesque route called Calfkiller Highway (more on this name later), a two-lane drive bordered by thick forests, I found this tiny place of rest — and so much more in the Upper Cumberland area of middle Tennessee. Cookeville, located on the Cumberland Plateau about 80 miles east of Nashville, is the county seat of Putnam and serves as the center of this 14-county Upper Cumberland region where some of Tennessee’s most majestic landscapes abound.
Stunning scenery, outdoor activities, and rich history all make Upper Cumberland appealing and well worth a visit, but Southern hospitality and the genteel essence of the locals are what travelers will most remember. If you’re planning a visit, here’s a snapshot of where to eat, stay, and play.
Outdoor/Nature:
Those seeking outdoor action will be awed by Tennessee’s untamed splendor. With 24 state parks, over 150 waterfalls, and more than 1,200 miles of lake shoreline — all within about a 50 – 60-mile radius of downtown Cookeville — nature lovers will not lack for activities.
The nearby Calfkiller River is a popular destination for kayaking and fishing. A number of theories flourish on how Calfkiller got its name. According to city historians, the one most likely is that Calfkiller is named after a Cherokee chief who lived in the valley when the first European settlers arrived around 1800.
Due to its geography, the Upper Cumberland hosts some of the best motorcycling in the Southeast and attracts riders from across the country. The elevation averages about 1,400 feet, much of it diced with remote roads, forests, and verdant meadows. Cookeville is a designated stop on the annual Run for the Wall veterans’ motorcycle event, a cross-country journey with participants riding in honor of POWs, KIAs, and MIAs. Find route suggestions at visitcookevilletn.com/motorcycles.
Fitness seekers can also check out the Tennessee Central Heritage Rail Trail, a nearly 5-mile jogging, biking, and walking path along the Tennessee Central Railroad.
Dogwood Park in Cookeville, Tennesse
History:
Civil War buffs will discover The Battle of Dug Hill, fought in 1864 on the Calfkiller River, the most memorable engagement fought in Putnam County, where a band of Confederate soldiers ambushed a group of Federals. Civil War trail markers can be found throughout the area. The Cookeville History Museum also provides interactive exhibits.
Other Patriotic Points of Interest:
Veterans Memorial, Putnam County Courthouse Square
Veterans Hall, Jackson and Putnam Counties
Dekalb County Veterans Memorial, Smithville
White County Veterans Park, Downtown Sparta
Military Memorial Museum, Crossville
Overton County Veterans Memorial, Livingston
Performing Arts:
The Cookeville Performing Arts Center offers a 456-seat downtown venue adjacent to Dogwood Park. The Center produces state, regional, and national award-winning plays and is also home to Cookeville Children’s Theatre productions. Warm-weather months bring performances to the adjacent Dogwood Performance Pavilion, featuring the Cookeville Community Concert Band, Shakespeare in the Park, and After Dark Movies.
Lodging:
The Saltbox, a few miles north of downtown, is a charming bed-and-breakfast, perfect for both business and leisure, and is also one of the top wedding venues in the South with elegant event spaces. The 22 pristine acres include stables, a greenhouse, and suites sporting a rustic, cabin-esque feel. saltboxinn.net
Sulfur Ridge, Tennessee’s luxury treehouse for two, is rustic-chic and romantic, with a private deck, outdoor lounge, and swinging bed underneath the building. Between the warming fireplace and hot tub, this ideal refuge is a short drive west of downtown. staysulfurridge.com
Provided by Sulfur Ridge
Lodging at Sulfur Ridge
Eats and Drinks:
Taste your way through downtown Cookeville. Spankies, a bar and grill near Tennessee Tech University, offers American food and spirits at a reasonable price. Seven Senses Food & Cheer is home to World Chef Challenge Winner Chad Combs. Dine around the corner at 37 Cedar or Father Tom’s Pub. Select a cone or a cup at Cream City Ice Cream & Coffee House or a famous doughnut from Ralph’s, home of Tennessee’s favorite sweet treat.
For libations, hike the Tennessee Whiskey Trail (tnwhiskeytrail.com) and Upper Cumberland Wine Trail (uppercumberlandwinetrail.com) for a tour of the local distilleries and wineries. Check their websites for itineraries.
Antiquing:
Cookeville is also home to several antique shops, many of which are a part of the Tennessee Antique Trail. The Cookeville Antique Mall & Auction Gallery, run by the Whittaker family who’s spent more than 40 years collecting, is a good place to get lost. Find anything from license plates and advertising signage to estate jewelry and furniture within the mall’s eclectic vignettes.
