Discover Kemah’s Charm on the Ultimate Boardwalk Getaway

From saltwater taffy and carnival rides to buried pirate treasure and mob-run casinos, Kemah’s boardwalk has a story as colorful as its waterfront views.

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With easy Gulf Coast breezes, stretchy saltwater taffy, and a clack-clack-clacking wooden rollercoaster — Kemah has all the trappings of an iconic American boardwalk. Kitschy? You bet. Tourist trap? Maybe a little. But there’s plenty of fun to be had here on Galveston Bay, just southeast of downtown Houston and five miles from NASA’s Johnson Space Center. Tropical landscaping and dozens of dancing fountains create a festive atmosphere for the seaside spectacle, a cavalcade of carnival rides and games. Compared to Texas’ other famous boardwalk, the Galveston Pleasure Pier, Kemah is more modern, less crowded, and has a greater variety of attractions…but its history is just as fascinating.

Originally inhabited by the Karankawa Indians, Kemah takes its name from their word for “wind in my face.” According to a well-stretched local legend, the pirate Jean Lafitte called Kemah home in the early 1800s thanks to its strategic location between Galveston Bay and Clear Creek (now Clear Lake). He buried his treasure nearby — and it was found 100 years later by members of the Maceo Syndicate, the criminal organization that ran Galveston for decades. The mobsters supposedly used the pirate’s treasure as seed money to transform the fishing village of Kemah into a hotbed of illegal gambling. Lavish casinos with names like the Chili Bowl and Kemah Den lined the glamorous boardwalk.

The law shut down Kemah’s illegal casinos during the 1950s, and in 1961, Hurricane Carla wiped them off the map with its Category 5 winds. Kemah reverted into a sleepy fishing town and became a sanctuary for South Vietnamese refugees fleeing their war-torn country. Many had been fishermen back home, and Kemah suited them well. The small-time operators would haul their daily catch to the side of the road and sell it to drivers passing by: the cheapest, freshest seafood on the bay. With NASA’s Johnson Space Center just 10 minutes away, tourism began to revive.

In the late ’90s, a new era arrived with the rebirth of the Kemah Boardwalk. Local billionaire Tilman Fertitta, owner of the Houston Rockets NBA team and Landry’s restaurant conglomerate, turned the wooden promenade into a top-notch entertainment hot spot. Inspired by renowned American boardwalks like Coney Island and Santa Cruz, Kemah soon joined their ranks as one of the best in the country. Vacationers can ride a double-decker carousel or hop on the 65-foot Ferris wheel for a bird’s-eye view of Galveston Bay. Thrill-seekers can get an adrenaline rush on Boardwalk Bullet, an old-fashioned wooden rollercoaster whose track runs just 5 feet away from the water. For a more leisurely ride, there’s a miniature replica of an 1863 steam train. Kids will love splashing in the fountains and feeding stingrays, and with a dozen restaurants, you won’t go hungry.

But it’s the simple pleasures of a seaside holiday that will stick with you the longest: the sailboats bobbing by the Kemah Boardwalk, the postcard-perfect views, and the feeling of the salty sea air as you stroll along in the sunshine.

Explore Kemah 

Savor: Landry’s Seafood House may be a chain, but it’s a damn good one. Feast on fresh Gulf Coast seafood and enjoy fantastic views from your table. Try to save room for the ice cream-stuffed bananas Foster crepes for dessert. Craving Cajun? Grab a seat on the patio at Crazy Alan’s Swamp Shack and try some smoked Parmesan oysters alongside a mountain of crawfish. For dinner and a show, you can watch sharks, stingrays, and exotic fish swim by your table at Aquarium, an underwater-themed restaurant and the top dining draw on the boardwalk. It’s all blue lights and aquariums, including a 50,000-gallon, floor-to-ceiling tank in the middle. While the seafood isn’t anything special, the experience is, so at least hit the bar for a cocktail. You’ll find several more seafood restaurants on the boardwalk, a Starbucks, and a Saltgrass Steakhouse — plus all the funnel cakes, corn dogs, and cotton candy you can eat.

Shop: The boardwalk is loaded with touristy treasures, all the usual suspects like souvenir magnets, bulk candy, fresh fudge, Hawaiian shirts, Christmas ornaments, shell necklaces, beach wear, and nautical decor. You’ll also encounter a few trendy brands like Kendra Scott, Quicksilver, and Pandora jewelry. Stroll a couple blocks south to the Lighthouse District to explore a smattering of quaint indie boutiques and take your picture with the blue-and-white-striped lighthouse. At Toucan Alley shopping center, you can grab a mochaccino or scoop of ice cream and recharge your batteries in the peaceful green courtyard.

Enjoy: The Aquarium restaurant is also home to Stingray Reef, which has a dozen touch tanks filled with the weird, flat sea creatures to pet. You can also feed them straight from your hands. Despite being related to sharks, stingrays have no teeth — so you won’t be bitten (although you might get gummed). Nearby is the Rainforest Exhibit with cute turtles and less-cute tarantulas, scorpions, and piranhas. To continue splashing around, book a ride on the Boardwalk Beast Speedboat and reach 40 miles per hour as you blast around Galveston Bay. Prepare to be soaked.

Snooze: Stay steps away from the action at the Boardwalk Inn, where every room has a balcony overlooking the Boardwalk waterfront. Kids will love the outdoor pool and splash fountains, and the hotel’s uber-convenient location can’t be beat. Most of the area’s short-term condo and home rentals are listed on Vrbo instead of Airbnb, and the majority are suited for larger families and groups. Kemah also has a handful of B&Bs and chain hotels, including the highly rated Courtyard by Marriott. If you want anything fancier than that, you’ll have oodles of options in Houston nearby.

How to Get There: Drive south from Fort Worth on US-287 S for about 60 miles, passing Mansfield and Waxahachie, then merge onto Interstate 45 S just past Ennis. Stay on I-45 for about 200 miles to the northern outskirts of Houston. Be sure to check traffic, but the best route is usually to hop on Interstate 610 E (The Loop). In 24 miles, merge onto TX-225E toward Pasadena/La Porte, then drive for 14 miles and merge onto TX-146 S toward La Porte. Kemah is about 10 miles ahead, and the entire trip is just over 300 miles.