San Elizario, Texas: A Hidden Gem on the Border

Centuries-old charm, conquistador legends, and a vibrant artist colony await in this hidden gem on El Paso’s edge.

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Whitewashed adobe walls whisper of a storied past in sleepy San Elizario, an age-old town on El Paso’s outskirts where the city gives way to cotton fields.  

But for 300 years, this village stood at the vibrant crossroads of a busy thoroughfare for missionaries, merchants, and militaries who spread Spanish culture from the heartland of Mexico to the American Southwest. And maybe — it was the actual site of the first Thanksgiving. 

Spanish conquistador Juan de Oñate arrived here in 1598 after trailblazing from Mexico City with 500 people and 7,000 head of livestock. The 50-day expedition had not been easy. After running out of food and water while crossing the perilous Chihuahuan Desert, humans and animals alike were on the verge of madness. They finally reached salvation: the Rio Grande. Oñate proclaimed a day of thanksgiving to celebrate their survival. They said prayers, staged a theatrical performance, and shared a feast of fish and game with the local Manso tribe. Twenty-three years later, the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. 

Either way, the day marked a momentous occasion — the start of Spanish influence in the Southwest. After continuing his trek deep into New Mexico, Oñate’s 1,600-mile route became a vital main corridor between New Spain’s capital of Mexico City and Santa Fe, its farthest frontier. 

You can sense this profound history at the San Elizario Presidio Chapel, whose curved belfry and white walls center the town with a tranquil presence. Called “San Eli” by locals and fronted by a leafy plaza, it’s still an active parish. The church was not built as a mission but as a place of worship for the military fort (presidio) established by the Spanish in 1789. Renovated and rebuilt countless times, its current structure largely dates from 1882.  

Explore deeper into the past at Los Portales Casa Garcia, a history museum housed in an 1850s residence with whitewashed adobe walls. Numerous nearby buildings share similar architecture and date from the town’s heyday in the early 1800s. Pick up a walking tour map for the San Elizario National Historic District, which includes 18 sites like the Old Jail Museum — once broken into by Billy the Kid to free his incarcerated comrade.  

After El Paso was established in 1873, much of San Elizario’s population drifted over to the new town and its railroad. The gunslingers and soldiers who once passed through here may be gone, but travelers and creative types have taken their place. Reinvented as an artist colony, this tiny Texas town with an oversized history is still a cultural crossroads where the past and the present meet. 

Explore San Elizario

Savor: First things first: the cheese. For four generations, the Licon family has made delicious queso asadero, a melty semisoft cheese akin to mozzarella. Visit Licon Dairy to try round slices of asadero (which they call tortillas de leche), chile con queso, or ricotta-style requeson. Kids will love the petting zoo. For a caffeine fix or something sweet, Cafe Arte Mi Admore offers artisan coffee and fresh pastries in the heart of the Historic District. Head a couple of miles north to the town of Socorro to encounter an overflow of eateries selling barbacoa tacos, birria de res, and quesadillas dripping with gooey asadero cheese. Sofia’s Restaurant and La Flauta Taqueria are two of the best — and be sure to stop by Three Missions Brewery for the churro-inspired Ysleta Stout.

Shop: Almost two dozen artists have studios in San Elizario, and many more show their work in the art galleries and gift shops along Main Street. Many are housed in historic adobe structures from the 1800s. The museum-like Mi Casa is the gallery and studio of Gaspar Enriquez, known for his photorealistic portraits of Chicano culture (his work is in the Smithsonian). Several resident artists work nearby at Placita Madrid, where you can see Romy Hawkins’ intricate metal art, Alberto Escamilla’s impressionist landscapes, and color-rich portraits by Robert Dozal. Color is also in full celebration at Otomi boutique; browse a brilliant collection of Mexican textiles to enliven your home and wardrobe.

Enjoy: San Elizario hosts the Smithsonian’s traveling exhibit “Crossroads: Change in Rural America” from May 3 to June 15, and you can expect insightful displays and interactive initiatives throughout the Historic District. The city comes alive during special events, like the First Friday Art Walk and the Mission Trail Art Market, with live music and reenactments of Billy the Kid’s famous breakout (check Facebook for the schedule). You’ll also find free guided tours every fourth Sunday, historical conferences twice a year, and ghost tours during the fall.

Snooze: There are no hotels or short-term rentals in San Elizario, but never fear — downtown El Paso is 20 miles away and home to several luxurious abodes. Situated in a 1930s Art Deco high-rise, Plaza Pioneer Park is an iconic landmark that oozes Old Hollywood glamour and has an excellent rooftop bar. The Stanton House is also set in a renovated historic building, but the vibe is artsy and ultramodern. Rooms have industrial décor, and many of them overlook a moving light sculpture in a four-story light well. At Hotel Paso Del Norte, you can sip your margarita under an original Tiffany stained-glass dome ceiling. It’s just one of the stunning elements at this 1912 hotel, which evokes the grandeur of a bygone era with crystal chandeliers, marble columns, and elaborate carved mahogany.

How to Get There: Drive west from Fort Worth on Interstate 20 and past Abilene, Midland, and Pecos for about 435 miles until Interstate 20 merges with Interstate 10. Continue on I-10 for another 137 miles until Exit 49 for Ranch Road 793 toward Fabens. Exit and turn left on Fabens Road and drive for 2 miles, then turn right onto Alameda Avenue/Main Street. In 0.6 miles, take a slight left onto Socorro Road and continue for 8.4 miles to reach San Elizario. All in all, you’re looking at 584 miles and nine hours with no stops. Don’t let your gas tank get too empty on those long, lonesome West Texas roads, and heads up: San Elizario is in Mountain time zone.