Take a Journey to Bandera, Where the West Lives On

Saddle up for horseback riding, campfire songs, and honky-tonk nights, all wrapped in the rugged charm of the Wild West.

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Have you ever dreamed of singing cowboy songs around a campfire and sleeping under the stars on an honest-to-God cattle trail? Bandera is the place to do it. For all those should’ve-been-a-cowboys, this Hill Country escape lets you live out your Wild West ambitions with horseback riding, honky-tonks, and historic ranches. It’s not uncommon to see horses hitched up outside saloons or ranch hands in town for an evening beer — no surprise here in the “Cowboy Capital of the World.” 

Bandera’s dozen-or-so dude ranches are its biggest draw, where you can eat chuckwagon dinners on the open range and swim in the slow-moving Medina River under cypress trees and oaks. They’ve attracted city slickers on vacation since the 1920s, but once welcomed much noisier visitors: millions and millions of hardscrabble longhorn cattle.  

In 1874, Bandera became the main staging area for the Western Trail, one of the four great cattle trails (along with the Chisholm, Shawnee, and Goodnight-Loving). The Western Trail stretched farther and lasted longer than any other route, and it handled more cattle than all the other trails combined — at least six million. Feeder routes from South Texas converged in Bandera before traveling north to Dodge City, Kansas, and beyond.  

The Western Trail lasted until 1897, and much of the town’s historical architecture evokes the rough-and-tumble days of the cowboy era — like the cut limestone jail with castle-style crenellations from 1881. A few blocks away, the three-story Italian Renaissance courthouse dates from 1890 (it replaced an older courthouse from 1868, which is also still around).  

Bandera has an impressive number of shops and restaurants for its size, and Wild West gunfight shows are performed multiple times most Saturdays. Special events bring stagecoach rides, cattle drives, and music concerts to town. You’ll also hear live music almost every night at Bandera’s honky-tonks, like the illustrious Arkey Blue’s Silver Dollar Saloon. Step through the red door next to Bandera General Store to access the dimly lit basement bar with cheap beer and sawdust on the floor. Play a few rounds on the Dolly Parton pinball machine and see where Hank Williams Sr. (allegedly) carved his name into a table. Open since the 1930s, the Silver Dollar is the oldest continuously operating honky-tonk in Texas. 

Find more space for two-stepping and a large outdoor patio at 11th Street Cowboy Bar, which is BYOB on Wednesday nights: Bring Your Own Beef. You bring the steak (or sausage or chicken); they’ll have the barbecue pits hot and ready. Seasonings and utensils are provided, and sides are available for sale. Dance the night away with road-trippers, ranch tourists, cowboys, and locals. Whether you sleep under starry skies or inside a cushy luxury cabin, your inner cowboy will rest easy in Bandera — and you just might wake up with a yippee-ki-yay.   

Explore Bandera  

Savor: From giant pancakes to the John Wayne room and saddle bar stools, Old Spanish Trail restaurant is a Bandera legend (but everybody here just calls it OST). Much hasn’t changed in decades, including the locals’ devotion. Visit the covered wagon salad bar or order the chicken-fried steak for a sure thing. Looking for something new? Monte Alteza just arrived on the scene with Spanish tapas, wine, and craft cocktails. B-Daddy’s BBQ on Main is another newcomer with talked-about brisket and old-fashioned sides. If you’re an egg lover, eggs top the guacamole toast, grilled cheese sandwiches, and every other item on the menu at The Hen’s Nest. 

Shop: Start at Bandera General Store, whose 118-year-old building has housed a movie theater and saddle shop (the tin ceiling and wood floors are original). Order a chocolate malt at the 1950s soda fountain and browse vintage boots, books, and Texas tchotchkes. Walk across the street for an excellent selection of whiskey and tequila at Spirits of Texas, where almost everything is made in the Lone Star State — much of it within 20 miles. Texas Salt Co. sells seasonings smoked with native woods like oak and mesquite, and you can shop for handcrafted belt buckles and turquoise jewelry at Hyo Silver. 

Enjoy: If you’ve never seen a shrunken head, two-faced goat, or map of Texas made from snake rattles — and you want to — get thee to Frontier Times Museum to explore oddball curiosities and historical relics. The museum is one of the venues for the Smithsonian’s traveling exhibit “Crossroads: Change in Rural America,” which shows in Bandera from June 21 to Aug. 2. The town hosts copious events throughout the year, including a PRCA rodeo, biker rallies, and a Cowboy Mardi Gras. You’ll find plenty of options for horseback riding, from an hour or so in the saddle to overnight cowboy camping trips with outfits like Bandera Historical Rides.  

Snooze: First things first: Decide whether you want to stay in the countryside on a dude ranch or in Bandera near the boutiques and honky-tonks. For townies, the Vaquero “rustic boutique motel” offers woodsy cabins with patios and fire pits overlooking the Medina River. If you want horses, hoedowns, and hayrides, head out to family-friendly Mayan Ranch, operating since the 1950s. Dixie Dude Ranch is even older and evokes the homey atmosphere of a working ranch. Flying L Ranch has an 18-hole golf course, and at Hill Country Equestrian Lodge, you can bring your pets — even your horses. 

How to Get There: Drive south from Fort Worth on the Chisholm Trail Parkway for 27 miles and turn right onto US-67 S, continuing for 38 miles. Turn left onto TX-220 S and drive 12 miles to Hico, then take US-281 S for 21 miles to Hamilton. Turn right on Main Street for a few blocks, then take a slight left onto FM 218 W to reach FM 2005 (about a mile). Continue 32 miles to Goldthwaite, then hop on TX-16 S for 117 miles, passing through Fredericksburg to reach Kerrville. Take TX-534 Loop S for 4 miles, then turn left onto TX-173 S to Bandera, about 22 miles ahead. The entire 277-mile trip is about five hours with one brief stop.