Crystal Wise
One of the only places to find Guatemalan food in Fort Worth is El Meson Chapin, where owner Rolando Son follows his mother’s recipes to a T.
Mexico might get all the attention when it comes to Latin American cuisine — they lucked out with the ubiquitous tacos, enchiladas, and quesadillas — but its neighbor to the south offers some distinct and delicious fare of its own.
Walk into El Meson Chapin, a Guatemalan restaurant located in the middle of taqueria central on Sylvania Avenue, and there are two things you are bound to experience: a television playing marimba-heavy Guatemalan folk music and an introduction to Rolando Son, who, along with his wife, owns the restaurant.
Crystal Wise
Marimba-infused Guatemalan folk music adds to the ambience.
Chapin, you should know, is a Spanish slang term for Guatemalans. While the correct Spanish form for Guatemalans is Guatemalteco, you will rarely hear this word in Guatemala, as locals prefer the shorter Chapin.
Son, a self-described Chapin, spent the first 35 years of his life in Guatemala, where he was the first born of 12 children. Growing up in the city of Quetzaltenango near the border of Mexico, Son would watch his mother cook for the large family, learning the tricks to preparing traditional Guatemalan food.
“As the big brother, I felt the need to learn how to cook,” Son says. “So that’s how I picked up the craft. And I like the food to taste exactly as my mom made it. I like the food to taste like home.”
Crystal Wise
El Meson Chapin has a wide variety of tamales.
Son is careful to follow his mother’s recipes to a T, making sure he has all the correct spices and seasoning required in the cuisine. According to Son, the main differentiator between Guatemalan and Mexican food is the varied flavor profile.
“Mexicans usually just use chile to give their food flavor,” Son says. “[Guatemalans] actually put work into their seasoning and try to make sure it’s all good.”
The Mayans, who Son proudly states are from Guatemala, had an ancient dish called Kak’ik — a turkey-based soup with fried celery, tomatoes, bell peppers, and a concoction of spices. The dish, which takes hours to prepare, is served, as is every other dish at El Meson Chapin, with a side of chile pequin. The menu bluntly describes this as “hot Guatemalan pepper sauce.”
Crystal Wise
Chile pequin
Serving as a substitute for salt and pepper, it’s expected one should pour this sauce — made up of chile pequin, cilantro, onion, and lime juice — over any dish he or she is devouring. As pequin serves as the primary ingredient, one must be warned that the restaurant’s description of this sauce is spot on; it is hot. So, before you drown your enchiladas in said sauce, I highly recommend doing a test to ensure your taste buds can handle it.
As an Oakhurst resident, my frequent visits to the convenient restaurant have allowed me to sample a number of the diner’s unique dishes. For those new to traditional Guatemalan cuisine, I recommend starting with the Churrasco al Chimichurri. This dish, something El Meson Chapin labels as its house specialty, is a Guatemalan-style grilled steak with a green chimichurri sauce. The platter is served with rice, beans, and a mayo salad that is not to be ignored.
Once you’re feeling confident, I suggest moving on to the amazing soups and stews the restaurant offers. The crown jewel of these is the Pepian, a rich chicken stew made from tomatoes, sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds (yes, making it especially good for the fall-time palette), and peppers. The stew packs a punch of flavors, and the chicken, slow-cooked, tears easily from the bone.
A Guatemalan Cracker Barrel of sorts, the restaurant also offers a wide variety of Guatemalan trinkets where you pay your check. A family-owned and -operated business, you will likely see Son’s son or daughter behind the cash register on any given day.
1560 North Sylvania Ave. 682.385.9246
