Don Artemio
Among the top — as in, elite, high-end, cream-of-the-crop — fine dining restaurants in Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila in Northeastern Mexico, Don Artemio is one that often, if not always, makes the list. Its chef, Juan Ramón Cárdenas, is something of a celebrity, having racked up multiple accolades from Wine Spectator and Tripadvisor among other institutions, and last year, made an appearance on Netflix's "Taco Chronicles."
And now, Cárdenas is bringing his signature restaurant to the U.S. — selecting Fort Worth's Museum Place to be the second location of Don Artemio.
Taking over the former Mr. Gatti's Pizza space at 3268 W. Seventh St., Don Artemio comes to Fort Worth through a partnership between Cárdenas and former Café Modern general manager Adrian Burciaga. The two are longtime friends — Cárdenas is Burciaga's mentor, who more than once has come to Café Modern as a guest chef. Cárdenas was eyeing Texas for a second location of Don Artemio last year, and after scouting around, he decided Fort Worth's Cultural District was the best place to be, not only for its world-class museums and forthcoming luxury hotel, but also for the way the city reminded him of his hometown.
Burciaga says both Fort Worth and Saltillo share a similar "cowtown" character.
"There are a lot of people wearing hats and boots in Saltillo, similar to Fort Worth," he says. "They like beef and buying local, supporting the local markets; Saltillo is very similar to that."
Cárdenas and Burciaga signed the lease about two weeks ago. Jennifer Dyess and Michael Berkowitz of Fort Worth-based Colonial Commercial Real Estate represented the tenant, while Rodger Chieffalo — known for his work in the revamp of Roy Pope Grocery and Paris Coffee Shop — represented the landlord.
And get it out of your head, the notion of Mexican restaurants being all tacos and margaritas, Chieffalo says: "We don't have a Mexican restaurant of this caliber in Fort Worth right now ... in the world of fine-dining, this is unusual."
Locals should expect steaks, nopalitos (cactus), and Cárdenas' signature cabrito (that is, roast goat kid) among other offerings. Cárdenas says diners will get to taste beef he's been aging for four to five years and tortillas made in-house. And there will be drinks, of course, with a menu that features a selection of Mexican wines, mezcal, and tequila.
Construction is currently underway on the 5,300-square-foot space. Burciaga says the restaurant's design will place distinct emphasis on three traditional building materials in Saltillo — barro (Mexican clay), concrete, and wood. There will be a patio and lounge with a bar, as well as a wine room and private dining space.
The goal is to open in November.
"We are going to see Mexican heritage," Cárdenas says. "We're going to do some real, traditional Mexican cooking. We're going to use local ingredients. All the local things that we can have, we're going to use them."
