Malcolm Mayhew
BBQ on the Brazos serves tortas on Thursdays only.
BBQ on the Brazos, the popular barbecue joint that resides in a Texaco gas station in Cresson, was one of the first local barbecue spots to introduce us to the wonders of barbecue breakfast, paving the way for other local ‘cue joints to follow.
Owners John Sanford and his wife Kathryn Warren were also early purveyors of craft barbecue tacos — a staple now at most craft barbecue restaurants in Texas.
The couple recently introduced another new item we’re hoping sparks a trend: the barbecue torta. It’s a special available only on Thursdays.
“It’s our version of taco Tuesday,” Sanford says.
Dreamed up by Warren, the sandwich is a play on the traditional Mexican torta, a sandwich made with crusty, oblong-shaped bread, like a submarine sandwich. The bread BBQ on the Brazos uses for its tortas, shipped in fresh from a bakery in Dallas, is a bit wider than most tortas, Warren says, which is good because it has a lot of ingredients to hold.
The main ingredient, of course, is barbecue brisket. Each sandwich gets about a quarter pound of it, sliced. As we’ve noted before, Sanford’s brisket is some of the best in the North Texas area. Like most craft barbecuers, he uses a slow method, smoking his brisket — as well as his other meats — for hours.
Most tortas include a layer of refried beans. To be a little different, Warren uses refried black beans. For a sauce, she came up with a black pepper crema. Fresh tomatoes, sliced avocado, rings of purple onions, romaine lettuce, and melted Oaxaca cheese round out the sandwich, which comes sliced in two.
“The reason we slice it in two is because it’s perfect for sharing,” Warren says. “One half will fill you up.”
BBQ on the Brazos is one of the most well-known craft barbecue restaurants in North Texas. It’s on Texas Monthly’s coveted Top 50 Barbecue Joints in Texas list and has, over the course of its eight-year history, amassed a devoted following.
BBQ on the Brazos, 9001 E US Hwy 377, bbqonthebrazoscressontx.com
