Richard W. Rodriguez
Mary Perez
Fort Worth has long celebrated restaurateur Mary Perez as its very own “Queen of Sauces,” a culinary force whose enchiladas and smoked barbecue have drawn devotees from across the city. But over the past year, both of Perez’s eateries experienced a rough patch that reminded even the most seasoned restaurateurs that great food isn’t always enough.
The Fort Worth dining scene buzzed with the news of Perez’s third Enchiladas Olé iteration, this one in the old Boozie’s Brewery space at 6473 Camp Bowie Boulevard in Oct. of 2023. The Nicolas Cage mural stayed on the wall; margaritas flowed, and for a while, it seemed like Perez had pulled off another triumph. Yet fast forward nearly two years later, and that Camp Bowie location shuttered — not because of the food, which remains as dependable as ever, but according to Perez, because of the slow churn of Texas bureaucracy.
Perez’s social media posts laid out the saga with equal parts frustration and heartbreak: years of permit applications, thousands spent on temporary liquor licenses, and still no full approval. Customers wanted a margarita with their enchiladas, she explained, but without a license, the tables emptied faster than she could refill them.
“In the past months, tables of customers get up and walk out,” she wrote about her decision to close up on Camp Bowie in Sept. “Today we are moving... we just cannot continue to lose money.”
Mary Perez
Now, Perez is ready to fight back. She’s combining forces with her original Enchiladas Olé — now Enchiladas Olé Express — and Holy Cue’s barbecue menu — under one roof at 1208 Magnolia Avenue, the former Cat City Grill location.
“This way, I can control the quality, be in the kitchen, and make sure every recipe is followed exactly,” she said during a phone interview.
The new location will feature a counter-service format for efficiency, but diners can still sit and enjoy their meal, a nod to her loyal clientele who expect more than grab-and-go.
Inside, the building is getting a full refresh — floors, walls, and a brighter palette to match Perez’s vision. She’s also reviving fan favorites from her Sylvania location, like skillet-fried potatoes with queso and brisket, plus her famously sought-after Holy Cue meatloaf. Holiday orders will be limited to preserve the same handcrafted quality that has become her signature. Her hours of operation will be Tuesday through Sunday, with a brunch service on both Saturdays and Sundays.
As for alcohol, Perez says she is going to offer only Margaritas and beer, cutting back on the cost and red tape involved with running a full-service bar. She's also keeping a close eye on affordability. Prices will hover under $16 for most dishes, a strategic move to cut overhead while keeping food fresh and made to order.
“You either go with the trends, or you fold,” she said regarding her new move and price point. “People want faster quality, but they still want it done right, and they want to sit down and eat after they order.”
The Magnolia location isn’t just a practical consolidation — it’s a strategic landing spot. Next to the hospital district and in a growing stretch of Fort Worth, the site positions Perez to attract both locals and visitors seeking top-tier Mexican and barbecue fare in one stop. And while she’s considering a future expansion in the Stockyards, her immediate focus is singular: making this dual-menu concept work under one roof, delivering the flavors her city has come to expect from its “Queen of Sauces.”
Fort Worth diners can expect an opening after Thanksgiving, with Perez promising that every enchilada, every brisket, and every skillet will carry the kind of careful attention that’s kept her on top for years.
“For me, it's just phenomenal to be in that hospital district,” Perez added. “I mean, it's kind of like a dream come true for a restaurateur."
Enchilada's Olé Express/Holy Cue is currently offering everyday to-go orders and catering Family Meals with free delivery. Call 817-751-5556 to place your order today.
