Samantha Calimbahin
Guapo Taco's three signature tacos (front), birria tacos (back left), gordita (back right), and Elote Loco (back), paired with a jamaica agua fresca
The Mariachi's sign is faded now off the exterior wall of the South Sylvania Avenue convenience store that was once home to the cult taco shop. In May, Mariachi's Dine-In traveled westward, snagging a space of its own out on Locke Avenue adjacent to Camp Bowie Boulevard. But there was one element that didn't travel with it — Chef Angel Fuentes.
Fuentes decided to part ways with the restaurant — in the friendliest way, as they still support each other — and stick around at the gas station, reopening it as Guapo Taco ("guapo" is Spanish for "handsome") with a menu all its own.
Familiar favorites like street tacos, quesadillas, tortas, and the like remain, but Fuentes puts a distinct spin that distinguishes itself from Mariachi's. There are three signature offerings (El Guapo Taco, El Latin Lover Taco, and El Borracho Taco) that diners can fill with their choice of meat, along with burgers, sides like elote, and aguas frescas. And Fuentes says this isn't the full menu yet — vegan options and more offerings will come as Guapo Taco finds its footing during the soft opening stage.
Seating within the gas station remains small but spaced out, with four tables and a new mural featuring brightly colored cacti and Guapo Taco's logo. You may find yourself swatting a few flies while you're there (come on, you're at a gas station), but I promise the food is well worth the experience.
During my visit, Fuentes was wearing many hats — chef, cook, server, and more — as he was the only employee working that day. And yet, the array of dishes I tried did not miss a beat. The most obvious standout is the namesake dish, El Guapo Taco, made with pickled cabbage, avocado crema, Cotija cheese, and fresh jalapeños. I opted for the barbacoa, which was perfectly tender, stringy, and greasy — the way it should be, right?
The birria, my go-to at Mariachi's, is equally delicious here and can be made with barbacoa or lamb (I recommend the latter).
The real dark horse on the menu, however, is the Elote Loco, topped with crushed Takis that add a tangy contrast to the creamy, cheesy consistency of the side dish.
That’s not to say the other offerings on the menu aren’t worth a try. More adventurous foodies should go for El Borracho Taco, a spicy option made with sweet pineapple, Guajillo crema, pico de gallo, and roasted corn. The sweet-meet-savory-meets-spicy combination somehow works — a concept that seems to be a recurring thing on Fuentes’ menu.
Guapo Taco is located at 301 S. Sylvania Ave. Hours are Tuesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.