
Keith Barrett
Editor’s note: Although our digital editor grew up in the DFW area, he’s been away for a while — try 20 years. So, with a fresh palate, he is rediscovering all the cuisines Fort Worthians embrace.
It should go without saying that being a reporter means having to eat many meals on the run. Since I’m always chasing a deadline, foods that can fit in one hand while typing with the other are a steady staple in my weekly diet, or lack thereof. Rarely do I have a chance to just sit and enjoy a large meal in the middle of the day. However, I was able to sneak in a lunch at the famed Fort Worth eatery The Star Café while covering a story in the Stockyards this week, which left me, well, with a great taste in my mouth.
Me and two sources I was interviewing asked if there was a spot nearby, we could grab lunch after we watched the 11 a.m. cattle drive. The next few words out of one the sources mouths were music to my ears, “It’s on me, by the way.” I immediately perked up, but realized we are in tourist country and didn’t want to impose to pricy of a meal ticket on my eager and hungry source.
It was nearly noon and the August heat was beating down on the three of us relentlessly. I first thought of Hooker’s Grill just up the road, whose food is amazing but alas devoid of A/C. My next thought was to hit up the Star Café. Although I’d never been there myself, it has come up time and time again as a place of note, specifically when the subject of chicken fried steak is mentioned in our newsroom.
I was a bit apprehensive suggesting this place, given I’d never been there, but I knew it was economical and close by, and most importantly, had A/C. The cold waft of refrigerated air welcomed us into this establishment, which first opened in the 1930s as Edna’s Star Café. The patina of the old Stockyards hung heavy in the air, along with freshly cooked food.

We grabbed a four-top table near the door and ordered drinks immediately. Almost as quickly as our server put the drinks on the table we gulped ‘em down like we’d been walking in the desert for days.
The menu itself was very simple. There were variations of chicken fried steak, a sandwich or a plate, several steak options, I mean, come on this is the Stockyards after all. Hamburgers, and sandwiches, and even a baked potato option as a side peered at me like an interrogation for my stomach. But I was steadfast and ordered the chicken fried steak despite the distractions offered by the menu’s other delicious looking options.
After settling into the cold air and enjoying a refill of sweet tea, our order was placed before us. A giant chicken fried steak lay before me served with a side of mashed potatoes and corn. I noticed how crispy the chicken fried steak batter was as soon as I cut into the hunk of meat on my plate. The flavors were excellent, with a hint of pepper and buttermilk on the back end. My steak was so big I cut it in half and saved the rest for another meal. This is where the real flavor story that impressed me begins.
After getting back to the newsroom, I placed my leftovers in the office fridge, figuring I would get back to them for lunch the following day. When lunchtime rolled around the next day, I warmed the half of the chicken fried steak I saved in the microwave. I wasn’t expecting to taste the same flavors I experienced from the day before when it was fresh, but man was I wrong. Just like a good salsa, or a fine wine, this chicken fried steak got better with age. I was taken aback after the now solidified flavors of this food hit my tastebuds. Everything was heightened flavor-wise. The still crispy batter highlighted more flavor complexities than I anticipated. I remember telling a coworker how much better the food tasted after a night in the fridge, to which they nodded in agreement.
All in all, I recommend not only checking out the historic Star Café in the Stockyards, but if you order a plate of food, specifically the chicken fried steak, save a portion to place in the fridge overnight. Chances are, you too will be surprised at how amazing the batter tastes after resting in the isolated cold for several hours.