Stephen Montoya
It’s always a good sign when the complimentary chips and salsa at any Mexican restaurant taste like they are more than an afterthought as you peruse the menu. It may come as a complimentary start to a meal, but I usually judge a Mexican restaurant by its chips and salsa right out of the gate. This was exactly what I did at the Cancun Mexican Restaurant located at 7419 Camp Bowie W Blvd. earlier this week. Again, I found out about this establishment by word of mouth and set my sights on yet another culinary adventure.
Looks can be deceiving when it comes to the exterior décor of this restaurant, but that’s probably why it’s known as a local gem that offers what counts — great food. Upon entering the front doors, it felt kind of like walking into a casual speakeasy. The ambiance was dark with the tiniest bit of natural light shining through the front glass patio doors. There were two big-screen TVs on either side of the walls that had niches cut into them filled with Mexican art. I was greeted immediately and shown to a table near the bar in the back of a chatter-filled dining room. After I sat down, I was given a set of silverware, a sweet tea, and some chips and salsa to tide me over as I read the menu. After two bites of the homemade chips, I was hooked on the freshly fried after-taste that accompanied each sliver of salsa. The salsa, however, was a bit thick and lacked the heat I so enjoy getting addicted to when eating it fresh. Instead, it had a pasty taste that had the promise of heat but never delivered.
This being my first time at this establishment, I ordered the lunch combination plate that came with two chicken flautas, an Oaxaca cheese quesadilla, and combo chicken and beef fajita nachos. The flautas were crunchy and perfectly golden on the outside. The inside, however, was a bit lackluster. There really wasn’t any hint of flavor on the chicken. It just tasted like plain boring chicken. The same could be said for the chicken on the fajita nacho. The cheese and beans on the chips had more complexity to them than the meat. The cheese quesadilla had a good fried-style aftertaste that was perfect for dipping into the sour cream and guacamole in the center of the plate.
The real Rockstar standout for me though was the beef fajita. Yes, I meant to write it as a singular, fajita not fajitas. The nachos were basically two large chips covered with refried beans, and cheese served under a single square of fajita meat. Mind you the square was a 1x1 inch piece of meat, so it wasn’t small. I ate the nachos with a fork and knife like I was aping an old episode of Seinfeld. Actually, I did this so I wouldn’t spill food all over my white dress shirt. The beef fajita meat was amazing. It had a smoky flavor with a hint of garlic, cumin, and another flavor like Worcestershire sauce, which I love. My taste buds kept reaching to experience each bite like a split second of bliss that passed too quickly. If I ever come back, I know for sure what I am ordering. So, I guess the combination plate did its job as an entrance place for a novice patron.
Stephen Montoya
Holes in the Fort Rating Scale
Ambiance: Out of 5 – 3 (Kind of dark, but a great atmosphere if you want to remain incognito)
Service: Out 5 – 4
Food: Out of 5 – 4 (Some of the menu items like the chicken didn’t have much flavor)
Price point: Very economical (the mid-price point is around $12 +)
Do: The beef fajitas, or beef fajita nachos. This along with the homemade chips are some of the best fajita nachos I have ever had.
Don’t: order the chicken flautas or chicken fajitas. Unfortunately, the chicken is pretty bland.
For more information on Cancun Mexican Restaurant click here.
(Holes in the Fort is an ongoing series that highlights some of the city’s best local food spots.)
