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Photo by Olaf Growald
Austin City Tacos
Tacos from left to right: Eastside Pork, Pastor, Al Carbon, Smoke House
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Photo by Olaf Growald
Austin City Tacos
The Storefront
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Photo by Olaf Growald
Austin City Tacos
Signature Sauces
Some might gawk at the name — why do we need Austin tacos when Fort Worth’s culinary scene can more than hold its own? But, much like pizza (think Brooklyn-, Chicago-, New Haven-style pies), cities are developing distinct styles of this Texas staple.
Cam Powell, a former student at the University of Texas at Austin who fell in love with the capital city’s laid-back dining experience and eclectic vibe, tapped local chef de celebre Juan Rodriguez as the shop’s culinary director and opened this unmistakably Austin-flavored restaurant this spring on University Drive. Austin City Taco Co. is conveniently located a mere 100 yards from the new Deep Ellum Funkytown Fermatorium.
The diner is a vivid recreation of an Austin dining experience — it’s cozy, modern, and sun-soaked with outdoor seating to boot. One can easily imagine the shop existing amidst the hustle, bustle, and hipness of South Congress.
Like most stops to get your taco fill, starting with a round of chips and queso is a must. I recommend you dip into the “Cheat Day! Queso” ($4.85), which you can order with either crispy fries or fresh tortilla chips. You can also add a dollop of bacon jam to the queso if you want to take your cheat-day meal to a whole new level. The rich queso is a blend of white and yellow American cheese and (gulp) heavy cream. It’s an indulgent and super-creamy treat with a little heat and plenty of black pepper.
I began my taco tour from the all-day breakfast corner of the menu. The Midnight Craving ($3.95), a taco overflowing with scrambled egg, chopped brisket, and diced potatoes, is crave-worthy unconventional fare. The taco comes garnished with a liberal dusting of queso fresco crumbles, the aforementioned bacon jam, and a drizzle of buttermilk ranch dressing.
Four tacos feature their 12-hour, post oak-smoked brisket. I sampled The Bohemian ($4.75) and was surprised by its ideal combination of flavors. The chopped brisket, which lay in a handmade bi-color, white-and-blue corn tortilla, was lean, and the housemade guacamole plentiful. It was topped with queso fresco, shredded cabbage for crunch, and a Serrano crema with just a hint of spice.
The Al Carbon ($4.15), which continues the theme of jam-packed tacos, is filled with shredded rotisserie chicken, more guacamole, cabbage, cheese, Serrano crema, and pickled carrots. While the Salt n’ Vinegar ($4.95) gets points for creativity, it didn’t stand up to the other tacos. The taco’s filled with fried shrimp and salt and vinegar potato chips and topped with queso fresco and Serrano crema. The imperative to keep the chips from getting soggy meant this taco was a little dry.
Chef Rodriguez amped up the menu and filled the tacos to the brim. At other taco shops, you might order three tacos and still leave hungry — not at Austin City Taco; if you’re looking for lighter fare, I’d suggest going elsewhere. The prices might seem steep, but what you give in money, you get in return in food — their ability to fill a flour tortilla nearly defies the laws of culinary physics.
Don’t let the bottles of specially crafted and brightly colored sauces go unnoticed, as they can add a tangy, spicy, or even a sweet element to any taco. I was an especially big fan of the jalapeño-vinegar.
For dessert, the Perfect Soft Serve ($2.50) will satisfy any sweet tooth. Flavored with honey oat cereal and topped with Fruity Pebbles, the small swirls make a fun finale. Bottom line: Austin City Taco has an impressive menu that easily spans all three meals.
Austin City Taco
Location: 517 University Drive For Info: 817.945.1234, austincitytaco.com
What We Liked: A taco called The Midnight Craving is destined to become a classic.
What We Didn’t: The Salt n’ Vinegar shrimp taco was on the dry side.
Recommendations: Don’t be tempted to over-order. These tacos are filling.
