1 of 2
El Bolero
2 of 2
El Bolero
Crockett Row, that walkable complex of mixed-use buildings that stretches three city blocks, has seen some turnover in recent years. While this turnover provides new, adventurous fare for local foodies, it’s also a troubling trend. For instance, the coveted space currently occupied by El Bolero, which it took over in mid-February, was once home to Tillman’s Roadhouse and later the short-lived FW Market + Table. But if El Bolero’s solid cuisine equates to increased patrons, there’s hope the space might’ve found a permanent tenant.
One of the brands from Dallas-based ARG Concepts, El Bolero already has a footprint on the east side of the Metroplex with two locations in Dallas — one in the Design District, the other on Fitzhugh Street. The company has three additional restaurant ventures (a fourth, Hawthorn, is set to open at the new AT&T Discovery District in downtown Dallas), but this is the restaurant group’s first foray into Cowtown.
A color palette of greens and yellows with bold cactus wallpaper and geometric black-and-white floor tiles greet visitors as they walk in. The interior is an appealing space, but, for our money, the patio is the highlight. The outdoor seating with fanned rows of string lights provides the perfect spot to take in the bustle of Crockett Row on a breezy summer night.
I slid right past The Oilman — El Bolero’s famous black margarita — in search of something different. At my server’s suggestion, I sampled the Strawberry Pineapple ($10), which features ginger-infused tequila, a splash of Patrón Citrónage Pineapple Liqueur, muddled strawberry, lime and agave. What could have resulted in an overly sweet drink was perfectly balanced — not too limey and not too sugary.
While it’s easy to fill up on chips and salsa before a main course at any Mexican eatery, the ones at El Bolero are particularly difficult to turn away. The fresh-from-the-oven, crispy tortilla chips are dusted with a salty and spicy seasoning blend and came with two salsas — a mild and tangy avocado tomatillo and a smoky traditional style.
Tempted by the red snapper ceviche, we settled on an appetizer of Queso Fundido Al Pastor ($12). The server brought the gooey Oaxaca cheese, spiked with tidbits of roasted pineapple and adobo marinated pork, out in a cast-iron skillet. The dish is served with a doughy stack of palm-sized, hand-pressed corn tortillas, which were the star of the show.
The same tortillas (corn or flour) come with the Pollo Fajitas ($16). Not served on a sizzling skillet, the plate was a manageable portion, with one sliced grilled chicken breast, a side garlic rice, fresh pico and charro beans, and a mound of guacamole that was a little heavy on the raw onion.
El Bolero has two versions of chile relleno on the menu, the “de Queso” ($16) filled with traditional cheese and the “de Jaiba” ($21) filled with lump crab meat. I chose the latter. The chile was grilled until tender and served open-faced with a crab meat mixture getting lost in the toppings of melted cheese, fresh cilantro and pickled onion. The dish was mild, a little too mild to make it memorable.
The flan is described as having more of a custard consistency, and the Arroz Con Leche (rice pudding served with Abuelita Mexican chocolate ganache) is a popular choice. With no shortage of options on the dessert menu, we ultimately took their unique Tres Leches Neopolitano ($9) out for a spin. The slice is bicolored, with two layers of white tres leches sponge cake on either side of a middle chocolate layer. It was an interesting take, and the large portion provided plenty to share.
The patio at El Bolero is usually brimming on weekend nights and brunches (which are served 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday). Happy hours are also popular, and El Bolero serves lobster fajitas for $15 every Friday from 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.
El Bolero
Location: 2933 Crockett St.
Hours: Mon. – Thurs. 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., Fri. 11 a.m. – 11 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m. – 11 p.m.,Sun. 10 a.m. − 10 p.m.
Contact info: 682.250.7583, elbolero.argconcepts.com
What we liked: Relaxed atmosphere and killer patio provide the perfect spot to while away a few lazy hours.
What we didn’t: The Chile Relleno de Jaiba was tasty but lacked any spice or kick, leaving it a little lackluster.
Recommendations: El Bolero’s happy hours and brunches compete with the best that Crockett Row can dish out.
