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Photo by Olaf Growald
Gemelle
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Photo by Olaf Growald
Gemelle
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Photo by Olaf Growald
Gemelle
Lobster Spaghetti
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Photo by Olaf Growald
Gemelle
Aperol Spritz
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Photo by Olaf Growald
Gemelle
Spring Pizza
Prolific restaurateur and Fort Worth staple, Tim Love, has undoubtedly had an interesting career full of monumental successes and a few setbacks — such as his foray into the New York dining scene. His latest venture, Gemelle, has a home that could serve as a metaphor to the well-renowned chef’s career.
The space, located at 4400 White Settlement Road, was once home to a succession of bars but has now been re-envisioned, revamped, and given new life as a quaint Italian bistro. A space that, not long ago, appeared on the downturn has become a bustling spot that feels like a quick trip to Capri.
Gemelle, which means “twin” in Italian, is named in honor of Love’s twin daughters and opened its doors at the end of May.
The inviting space is heavy on atmospherics and provides far more than just food to its patrons. The backyard feel — complete with bright orange Aperol umbrellas, loungers, and a raised kitchen garden — is also furnished with bocce ball, cornhole, pingpong, foosball, and a few Instagram-worthy spots to boot.
The wine list leans Italian, and the house drink, the Aperol Spritz, a prevalent beverage choice in Italy, is served either frozen or on the rocks. I sipped a Pink Negroni ($13) instead, which consists of equal parts Bombay Gin, Aperol (the nearly fluorescent herbal, Italian apéritif), and Dolin Blanc vermouth. I loved its bitter backbone, as sugary drinks are not my favorite on a hot day.
My first course featured many ingredients fresh from the on-site gardens. The Quinoa Salad ($12), which featured a base of flash-fried red quinoa topped with fresh cauliflower and broccoli florets, limey avocado chunks, field greens, and radishes, is certainly worth a try. The crunchy quinoa, which had a soupcon of bacon flavor, was a delightful surprise.
Gemelle specializes in Detroit-style pizza. Breaking from the traditional pie form, the pizzas are cooked rectangularly and square cut; the pizza has a thick, crisp crust with burnt edges. We chose the meatless Spring Pizza ($12) topped with Italian asparagus, spring onion, goat cheese, and the occasional burst of lemon zest.
We also sampled the housemade pasta. The lobster spaghetti ($16) came soaked in a shell stock sauce with some Calabrian chili flakes for heat and a crown of micro basil. I was disappointed that the meat was actually langostino (which is more akin to shrimp or crawfish in both flavor and texture). I would have been happier with three chunks of tender lobster meat than with all the chewy langostino.
The rich and creamy Butterscotch Budino ($10) provided a decadent ending. This layered custard dessert is a butterscotch bomb and way too rich for one person to consider consuming on their own. The sweet caramel sauce topping is tempered with a healthy dose of sea salt and a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream.
Gemelle
Location: 4400 White Settlement Road
For Info: 817.732.9535, gemelleftw.com
What We Liked: The vibrant atmosphere is well executed; you really want to soak it up.
What We Didn’t: Parking can be tricky on a busy weekend, so get there early to get a space, and if you own a Vespa, I suggest you ride it — they actually have a few spaces reserved for those right by the front door.
Recommendations: The pizzas are great, but we recommend venturing to other corners of the menu, which include some unique and delicious options.
