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photo by Olaf Growald
The Bearded Lady
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photo by Olaf Growald
The Bearded Lady, Pigmento sandwich
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photo by Olaf Growald
The Bearded Lady, The Tejas Poutine
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photo by Olaf Growald
The Bearded Lady, The L.U.S.T. Burger and Brisket Mac & Cheese
The Bearded Lady was an instant hit when owner Shannon Osbakken first opened the gastropub on Magnolia Avenue in 2013. Located in a converted bungalow, The Bearded Lady earned a reputation for its extensive beer selection, quaint atmosphere, and inventive menu — especially the L.U.S.T. Burger, which landed at No. 3 among Texas Monthly’s 2016 Five Greatest Burgers in Texas.
But with her lease ending and the capacity at that location simply maxed out, Osbakken decided to relocate to an up-and-coming stretch of South Main Street in 2018. Her new digs — a circa 1925 warehouse that most recently served as the ABC Flag factory.
The new layout dwarfs its former space, with original cement floors, tall ceilings, and an exposed deck, metal roof, and ductwork. Rows of built-in booths, illuminated with dangling incandescent bulbs, mixed with scattered tables and mismatched chairs that Osbakken says she “can’t stop collecting.” The back wall is all Marfa-ed up with an artist-painted replica sign and its colorful cactus backdrop. There is also an oversized front patio, surfaced with crushed granite, adding several seating compositions and a small covered section to accommodate the inevitable weekend overflow crowds.
Where the space is obviously not as quaint, the tradeoff means you won’t have to wait long for a table.
With a new space also comes new menu items, like the Feisty Mac & Cheese ($7.50), infused with local HopFusion Ale Works’ Feisty Blonde beer. Since it was my first time to taste it, I ordered it plain; but diners also have the option of adding ingredients like brisket, pork, fried poblano, and roasted corn. Next time, I will add to the base — although the dish is rich and cheesy, without the additions, it’s kind of a bore. Rookie mistake.
The L.U.S.T. Burger ($13) remains on the menu, with its signature patty stuffed with roasted poblano pepper and feta cheese for a salty and slightly spicy surprise. Served inside a brioche bun, it’s topped with Gouda, caramelized onion, and avocado and comes with a side of kettle chips dusted with Parmesan cheese. On this visit, the L.U.S.T. Burger was not as lusty as I had remembered — the burger itself was a little dry.
We loved the gigantic Pigmento sandwich ($12.25) though, served between two buttered and toasted slices of sourdough. Filled with pulled pork and a thick spread of pimento cheese, it has blueberry compote for an added sweet and tart element. Pair it with fries, kettle chips, or a house salad.
Aside from the indulgent and meaty gastropub fare, another aspect of the menu caught our attention — plenty of vegan and vegetarian options like a vegan patty melt and sweet potato sandwich.
Bar seating has doubled from 12 on Magnolia to 24 on South Main. Extra bottle storage hangs overhead in black cages, and one flat screen is tucked discreetly in the corner. It’s a great place to mix, mingle, and make new friends.
Over 20 rotating beers on tap keep things interesting. Creative tap handles feature a fanciful collection of bearded beauties, from Jessica Rabbit to Beyoncé, painted by local artist Jana Renee.
I sipped a wheat beer called Hell or High Watermelon from San Francisco’s 21st Amendment Brewery, with just a tinge of watermelon aftertaste. Local offerings abound. But, in case you don’t find what you are looking for on tap, you can choose from an exhaustive selection of cans and bottles as well.
The Bearded Lady
Location: 300 S. Main St.
For Info: 817.349.9832, facebook.com/thebeardedladyfortworth
What We Liked: The Pigmento sandwich was hearty and delicious — pulled pork, pimento cheese, and blueberry compote work well together.
What We Didn’t: Without the optional add-ons, the Feisty Mac & Cheese is kind of a bore.
Recommendations: Try something new. There are plenty of new menu items to explore and plenty of beers you’ve never tasted.
