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Richard W. Rodriguez
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Richard W. Rodriguez
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Richard W. Rodriguez
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Richard W. Rodriguez
In Fort Worth at least, the word “taqueria” implies certain things — namely, tacos, and namely, tacos made with traditional fillings, from beef and chicken to tripe and carnitas.
It doesn’t, in other words, typically refer to kimchi quesadillas, carne asada bao buns, or mole ramen.
But that’s what you’ll find at Shōgun Taqueria, a wonderfully unusual new spot in the Near Southside area that combines Mexican food with Japanese cuisine.
Opened this past spring, the concept comes from Francisco “Paco” Islas, who closed his previous restaurant, Paco’s Mexican Cuisine, to make way for Shōgun, which occupies the same Magnolia Avenue spot as Paco’s.
For eight years, Paco’s served traditional Mexican dishes like birria tacos and molcajete. Impatient with an unpredictable economy that saw his following fluctuate and anxious to try something new, Islas closed Paco’s and, after a two-month break, embarked on a forward-thinking journey that may very well mark a first in Fort Worth’s dining scene.
“I knew I wanted to try something new, something that hadn’t been done before,” Islas says. “I love Japanese food, and I love Mexican food. I just needed to find a way to bring them together.”
For inspiration, Islas drew upon a collaborative Fort Worth Food + Wine Fest dinner he hosted with fellow Fort Worth chef Kevin Martinez, the executive chef at Tokyo Cafe. The two delivered a dinner that fused together elements of their areas of expertise.
“That was an amazing experience,” Islas says. “I really hadn’t done anything like that before, collaborate with another chef like that. The idea for Shōgun started there, and it’s been with me ever since.”
Shōgun Taqueria’s menu offers a truly integrated fusion experience: Quesadillas generously stuffed with kimchi and Oaxaca cheese; savory Asian dumplings brimming with chicken, chipotle peppers, and ginger seasoning; and tonkatsu con mole, a crispy deep-fried pork cutlet draped in a rich, housemade red mole sauce.
There are several vegetarian options, including shiitake mushroom tacos served on local corn tortillas and a Japanese-inspired take on pozole.
Drinks follow suit, with cocktails that artfully combine Mexican and Japanese elements, such as a sakura-infused margarita, a mezcal cocktail with bright yuzu citrus and Tajin, and a refreshing hibiscus sake sangria.
In a way, Shōgun carries a subtle echo of Islas’ family history. His father, also named Francisco, co-owned Paco & John’s on Eighth Avenue with renowned French chef Bernard Tronche of Saint-Emilion. From 2007 to 2014, Paco & John’s offered a blend of Mexican and French cuisine, including intriguing dishes like escargot tacos.
After Paco & John’s closed, Islas took over the business, relocating it to Magnolia Avenue in 2016 and rebranding it as Paco’s Mexican Cuisine. A second location of Paco’s opened in Sundance Square in the old Taco Diner space, but recently closed, allowing Islas to focus on Shōgun; at press time, he was in the process of opening an attached speakeasy bar.
For Islas, returning to Magnolia Avenue for this new chapter was a natural choice. “The Near Southside has been our home for many years, as both Paco’s and Paco and John’s,” he says. “It’s been a part of my family. I thought if I’m going to open a new concept, I should do it here in an area my family and I know and love.”
Shogun Taqueria, 1508 W. Magnolia Ave., instagram.com/shoguntaqueria
