Take a Journey to the Town of Alpine

This free-thinking town on the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert boasts a mountain range and a vibrant artist community.

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Way out west by the low-slung silhouette of the purple Davis Mountains, the free-thinking town of Alpine revels in its far-flung location. 

This scenic outpost at the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert has historically been known as ranch and cowboy country — and it still is, with an active ranching industry and the independent yet close-knit ethos that comes with it. 

By far the largest center of civilization around, Alpine has another claim to fame: the best summer climate in Texas, owing to its high elevation and low humidity. Summer evenings cool off to 63 degrees, and daytime highs average 83 — temps not seen for weeks (if not months) on end in Fort Worth. For many who make the drive (at least seven hours), it’s a place to down-shift and adapt to the laid-back pace before heading to Big Bend National Park, 75 miles away. Alpine is also a popular jumping-off point for adventures to historic Fort Davis, the McDonald Observatory, and the quirky creative hub of Marfa.

But you’ll find a vibrant artist community in Alpine as well, fueled by the landscape’s stark natural beauty and fresh young energy from Sul Ross State University. Visit the campus to explore the fantastic Museum of the Big Bend. Situated in a restored rock building from the 1940s, it’s a crowd-pleaser with replicas of an 1880s railcar, chuckwagon, and Texas Pterosaur — the largest flying animal that ever lived. Its wingspan stretches 36 feet. You can also peek inside a Native American rock shelter and glimpse historical maps dating all the way back to the 1500s.

While you’re on campus, take a hike up rocky Hancock Hill for sweeping views of the three mountain ranges that surround Alpine. You’ll pass a tree adorned with bicycles on the 1.8-mile loop, but that’s not the strangest sight you’ll encounter. Up top sits a desk from the late 1970s, hauled up decades ago by a few Sul Ross students who wanted to study in peace and quiet. Check the drawers for a notebook and add a message with your name for posterity.

Back down below, admire historic downtown Alpine’s 19th century architecture and vivid murals. The area buzzes with shops, galleries, and restaurants including the original Reata, a must for any self-respecting Fort Worthian. Tap your toes to live music at Railroad Blues, an old-timey Texas tavern with cheap beer and outdoor seating. The no-frills watering hole is one of the settings for the annual Viva Big Bend Music Festival, taking place July 24-28 this year. More than 60 performances will light up towns across the region, with most of the venues in Alpine — including a feed store and a saddlery. It’s the perfect season to trek out west and kick back with the cowboys, savoring the cool summer nights and two-stepping under the stars.   

Explore Alpine

Savor: Fort Worth’s iconic Reata restaurant opened its first location in Alpine three decades ago and still serves hearty Texas cuisine to satisfy the scrappiest cattleman, like flame-kissed carne asada topped with cheese enchiladas. Discover panoramic mountain views and a creative cocktail list at Spicewood Restaurant (at Quarter Circle 7 Hotel), along with rave-worthy burgers and seafood. Judy’s Bread & Breakfast is your go-to for bakery treats and leisurely morning meals; for vino drop into Petit Bijou, the “teeniest tiniest wine bar in Texas.”

Shop: It’s easy to while away the afternoon at Alpine’s gift boutiques and galleries, most of which line Holland Avenue. Wander through CatchLight Art Gallery to admire the works of a dozen talented painters, photographers, and jewelry-makers from far West Texas. Browse pastels and pottery inspired by the landscapes, light, and cultural traditions of West Texas. Indie enclave Front Street Books carries a well-curated collection of local authors and regional topics, and the staff is always ready to help (and make you a coffee). If you’re in Alpine on Saturday morning, stop by the farmers market on Murphy Street to chat with the vendors and check out their wares.

Enjoy: Summertime brings the Big Bend Ranch Rodeo to Alpine, along with outdoor performances under the stars at the Theatre of the Big Bend. Catch an Alpine Cowboys baseball game at historic Kokernot Field, a pretty little stone ballpark that’s the third oldest in America (after Boston’s Fenway Park and Chicago’s Wrigley Field). The Lone Star Cowboy Poetry Gathering descends every February to celebrate the words, songs, and music of the working cowboy — a truly unique event. Year-round you can peruse an impressive collection of prickly pears and spiky succulents at the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, a botanical garden that boasts over 200 varieties of cactuses.

Snooze: You’ll feel like you stepped into an Old West movie at the 1928 Holland Hotel, a Texas Historical Landmark with Spanish Colonial Revival architecture. Heavy wooden ceiling beams and dark leather couches evoke authentic frontier grandeur; book the penthouse and you’ll have a private roof deck. Light sleepers might prefer The Maverick Inn (it’s farther from the train tracks), a renovated ranch-style roadhouse with earthy stucco walls and hardwood floors. Antelope Lodge offers eclectic cottages with colorful Southwestern decor and 1950s motor court design. On short-term rental sites like Airbnb and Vrbo, you can book tiny cottages with big porches and container homes with Adirondack chairs on the roof for stargazing. 

How to Get There: Alpine is 464 miles west-southwest of Sundance Square. Leave Fort Worth on Interstate 20 and drive west. Keep heading west. Go west a little farther. When you reach the tiny town of Monahans (about 350 miles from Fort Worth), turn left onto TX-18 and drive south for 6 miles, then turn right and go south on FM 1776. In 44 miles, FM 1776 crosses Interstate 10 and becomes US-67. Continue driving south on US-67 for 56 miles, and you’ll arrive in Alpine. Note: Gas stations are few and far between after you leave I-20, so keep an eye on your gas gauge and don’t let it get too low.