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Crowned by a bright-red cowboy hat, the 65-foot Eiffel Tower in Paris encapsulates the town’s personality: Lone Star pride and French imaginings enlivened by a touch of quirk. Found in the northeast corner of the state at the edge of the Piney Woods, Paris leans into the connection with its slightly more famous namesake. You can race your bicycle in the local Tour de Paris, watch the Grand Prix (of motorboats), and admire paintings by homegrown impressionists at the Plaza Art Gallery.
Yearning for a fresh baguette or flaky chocolate croissant? The chefs at Paris Bakery flaunt their finesse with French pastries: cream-stuffed eclairs, pint-size apple tarte tatins, and ruby-red strawberry tarts. Let them eat cake — or try the European-style sourdough, a tasty base for turkey and provolone sandwiches smeared with raspberry mustard. When cabernet o’clock rolls around, Vin de Paris wine bar and creperie pairs flights of reds and whites with charcuterie boards and house-made sorbets. Their sweet and savory crepes come in flavors like blackberry and strawberry Nutella — and you might just encounter a best-dressed Dolly Parton contest or a paint-your-pet art class.
Most of the shops and restaurants cluster around Paris’ cute downtown square, which centers not around the Lamar County Courthouse but the Culbertson Fountain. Steps lead up to the oak-shaded landmark, built from a single block of Italian Carrara marble in 1927. Lion faces spout streams of water, and a smiling cherub up top lovingly cradles a fish. While the buildings around the plaza date largely from the World War I era, Paris’ heyday hails from the late 1800s: the era of railroads and cotton. You’ll find a small but impressive array of well-maintained houses from this time, including the Italianate Kaufman Terrace and the Wise House, a unique Queen Anne made of red brick. The architectural pièce de résistance is the 1868 Sam Bell Maxey House, a state historic site that offers hourly tours. Both floors of the Italian villa-inspired Victorian are filled with the Maxey family’s original furnishings and even their clothing.
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The Maxey House is just a few blocks away from Evergreen Cemetery, home to a true Paris, Texas, original: Jesus in cowboy boots. Topping the tomb of one Willie Babcock, the 19th-century statue is just one of the memorable stone monuments in the burial ground; there’s also a life-size buffalo and intricate carvings of swords, sheep, and cotton bales. If the cemetery ignites your cravings for idiosyncratic attractions, be sure to visit the Grecian peristyle at Bywaters Park and the giant soup can outside the Campbell’s factory. At Lamar County Historical Museum, you can admire an iron lung, a vintage shoe collection, and a modernized outhouse.
But in Paris, all roads lead back to the Texas Eiffel Tower. After an earlier wooden replica was destroyed by a tornado, the local welders’ union built a flashy new version in 1993. The signature red cowboy hat was added later after the city of Paris, Tennessee, erected a similar replica that was 5 feet taller. With the addition of the hat, the Texas Eiffel Tower could once again claim to be the biggest and the best — at least on this side of the Seine River.
EXPLORE TEXAS
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Savor: Okra tacos? Yes, please. The deep-fried nuggets are wrapped in warm corn tortillas with bacon, green onions, tomatoes, and a spicy-sweet sauce at 107, an open-air restaurant and beer garden in a historic downtown building. There’s a primo selection of Texas craft beers and upscale pub fare like pulled pork, grilled cheese sandwiches, and fried green tomato BLTs. Hit up Scholl’s Bros. BBQ for serious smoked meats including a Slammwich with brisket, hot links, and white cheddar mac. Ask for the off-menu specials at Torres Mochas, where you can try authentic Guanajuato-style Mex-Mex cuisine.
Shop: Antique hunters will be in heaven with more than a dozen mom-and-pop stores within walking distance in the downtown area. Start by perusing the rustic cache of French farmhouse finds at Monique’s, from weathered sideboards to delicate accent chairs and milky-white pitchers. The eponymous Monique hails from Paris, France, and returns home each year to source more treasures for her store. Browse the old-school aisles of Swaim Hardware for everything under the sun and stop by Crazy Horse Western Wear for a thorough selection of boots, clothing, saddles, and tack.
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Enjoy: Cycling is big news in Paris, whose Trail de Paris connects with 130 miles of paved and unpaved pathways along the Northeast Texas Trail. Wooded and covered with a thick canopy of evergreens, the Trail de Paris is a tranquil respite with plenty of shade (and an interesting scale model of the solar system). Dogwoods bloom in spring and copious crepe myrtles color the landscape in summer, not just around the trails but all over town. Warm weather also brings out the 70-piece Paris Municipal Band, which performs free Friday night concerts in June and July. Now in its 102nd consecutive season, the orchestra’s members range from teenagers to septuagenarians — and many have been playing these summertime shows for over 50 years.
Snooze: Find the most fashionable digs on short-term rental sites like Airbnb and Vrbo, such as the McDonald House — an airy, modern downtown loft with a private pool, backyard, and garage. Nearby are the 1st Street Lofts, an art deco-inspired retreat located in a restored 1916 building. Glam touches include a blue velvet couch, chic tilework, and a black-and-white bathroom with a freestanding tub. One “swanky bungalow” has bachelor pad vibes with a cool concrete shower and black shiplap walls. If you prefer a hotel, the Hampton Inn gets the highest marks.
How to Get There: Drive northeast out of Fort Worth on TX-121. Stay on 121 all the way to Bonham (about 96 miles total), passing DFW Airport and merging and splitting with various freeways through the metroplex including the Sam Rayburn Tollway and US-75 in McKinney. Just past Bonham, turn right onto US-82 E and follow it for 37 miles into Paris. The whole trip takes about two hours and 10 minutes with no traffic.