State Lines: A View of the Sea From Rockport

From one of the cleanest beaches in the state to a sundry of fishing options, this coastal city will cast a spell on you.

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There’s something special about the light in Rockport. Or maybe it’s the ever-changing moods of the sea, the wild wetlands, or the secluded bays. Whatever the case, the beguiling coastal enclave attracts artists like a shimmering lure on a fishing line. Sand dunes, shrimping boats, and shorebirds inhabit the watery haven, a laid-back landscape where live oaks are slowly twisted and shaped by the wind.

Situated northeast of Corpus Christi and surrounded by water on three sides, Rockport, which has a population of 10, 436, is a nationally recognized hub for creative types. Many move here in midlife to become painters or potters, trading urban hustle for the evocative beauty of the Texas Gulf Coast aesthetic — the region’s distinct artistic genre.

They’re joined by an abundance of wildlife: bottlenose dolphins, bobcats, javelinas, alligators, raccoons, deer, and especially birds. Tiny hummingbirds and majestic whooping cranes pass through Rockport on the Central Flyway, one of North America’s major migratory routes. See them in spring and autumn on birding trails and boat tours of Aransas Bay National Wildlife Refuge, which appears much the way the Karankawa people saw it four centuries ago.

Rockport’s waters overflow with redfish, flounder, and speckled trout, with marlin and tuna right offshore. Fishing guides are easy to hire and furnish all the bait and tackle you need, and many local restaurants will be happy to cook your catch to your liking. You can also charter your own boat, try wade fishing on the waterfront, or drop a line from the pier at Rockport Beach. This mile-long strip of sand is one of the cleanest beaches in the state, a popular hangout with conveniences like shaded picnic tables, palapa umbrellas, and well-maintained pavilions with flush toilets. Ride a fat-tire bike along the shoreline or swim in the large saltwater pool. Painters set up easels to work en plein air, and kayakers mingle with jet skis in Little Bay, a protected cove to the north.

Paddlers will find calmer waters at nearby Goose Island State Park, but the big attraction here is the Big Tree. Estimated to be 1,000 to 2,000 years old, this ancient live oak is one of the largest and oldest in the state. The Big Tree survived a Civil War naval bombardment that decimated everything else around and was relatively unharmed by a more recent cataclysm: Hurricane Harvey. Rockport was ground zero for the 2017 storm, which destroyed entire blocks and displaced thousands of residents. The town has worked hard to rebound and rebuild lost landmarks, like the 6,000-pound Big Blue Crab sculpture and the Rockport Center for the Arts. Both are bigger and better than ever. The latter opened in December 2022 with numerous galleries and a sculpture garden, along with spaces for concerts and creative workshops. If you want to learn how to paint with watercolors, carve wood, or fashion whistles out of clay — this is your place.

But fair warning: Some people who visit Rockport decide to stay forever, enchanted by the artist colony’s natural beauty and escapist ambiance. A refuge for creativity and individuality, Rockport’s seaside spirit speaks to the soul through the lapping of waves and the soft glint of sunlight in the cool morning mist. 

Savor:

Seafood lovers will be in heaven with all the just-caught shrimp, fish, and oysters at local favorites like the Old Fulton Seafood Café and Paradise Key. Artwork bedecks the walls of Latitude 28°02', an upscale eatery known for the Gilroy: the catch of the day baked in a garlic butter bread crust. Hit up The Groove Steak & Lobster House for surf, turf, and wood-fired pizzas, or try the Maryland-style seafood at 495 Chesapeake Eats. Rockport’s newest waterfront restaurant is Gnarly Marlin, where you can chill on the large outdoor patio with a breakfast-of-champions’ bloody mary served with celery, pepperoni, salami, Muenster cheese, shrimp, garlic-stuffed olives, a roasted pepper, and a cocktail onion.

Shop:

Bounce between a dozen art galleries on South Austin Street, the town’s main retail drag, as well as gift stores, fashion boutiques, and seashell shops by the seashore. Start at Estelle Stair Gallery, where Rockport’s nascent art community was nourished with bean suppers and encouraging words during the ’60s and ’70s. For children of the ’80s and ’90s, Rowdy Maui promises a psychedelic shopping adventure combining nostalgia and neon. If you’re in the mood for a treasure hunt, the Busted Pot Junk Museum sells vintage finds like ship wheels and Depression-era glass — and serves frozen margaritas on Saturdays.

Enjoy:

Crabbing, shelling, sailing, skiing, year-round fishing, and all manner of watery activities are on hand in Rockport. Marinas and boat ramps proliferate. Annual events celebrate everything from oysters and hummingbirds to kites, clay art, and crawfish. Summer’s biggest party is the Rockport Art Festival (July 1 and 2 in 2023), followed by a boat parade and fireworks on July 4. Rockport Fulton Market Days take place the third weekend of every month, hosting 160+ arts and crafts vendors on the harborside. Relax with outdoor concerts on the lawn at historic Fulton Mansion and take in the view from the three-story “lighthouse” at the Texas Maritime Museum.

Snooze:

Shorefront condos and pastel-colored cottages dominate the short-term rental scene on sites like Airbnb and Vrbo. The most sought-after neighborhood is Key Allegro, an island development with a festive atmosphere and canals lined with luxury homes. Many have boat slips, fish-cleaning stations, and kayaks at the ready. You’ll also find numerous rentals in and around the downtown area near Austin Street, where you can walk to galleries and restaurants. For hotels, The Inn at Fulton Harbor and The Lighthouse Inn offer basic but comfortable rooms on the waterfront.

How to Get There:

Head south on Interstate 35. About 18 miles past Salado, take exit 265 for TX-130 S, the loop around Austin. You’ll stay on TX-130 S for almost 60 miles; follow signs for TX-130 S/Lockhart/San Antonio. Take exit 470 just north of Lockhart for US-183 S, which you’ll stay on for about 65 miles. At Cuero, turn left onto US-87 S/E Broadway St. toward Victoria. Drive 24 miles and then turn right onto US 77. The road winds around a bit — just keep heading south. In 27 miles, take TX-239 E toward Tivoli/Goliad for about 11 miles. At Tivoli, you’ll turn right on TX-35 S, and it’s around 32 miles to Rockport. The trip takes about six hours with no stops.