After miles of hypnotizing flatness on the windswept plains in the Panhandle, the earth breaks open into a spectacular chasm with towering cliff sides, colorful hoodoos, and hiking trails to hidden caves. But this is no desert mirage: It’s Palo Duro Canyon State Park, a rugged natural treasure that’s rich in wonderment as well as history, and the small town of Canyon is the gateway to it all.
Brian Kendall
Cut into the High Plains by a branch of the Red River, the Palo Duro Canyon is the second-largest canyon in America: 120 miles long, 800 feet deep, and up to 20 miles wide. Its steep, striated walls blaze with brilliant reds, oranges, and ochers, especially around sunrise and sunset. Trees and meadows can be surprisingly green. Footpaths for every fitness level lead to secret slices of wilderness, or you can drive to the canyon floor and back on a 16-mile paved loop.
The Spanish explorer Coronado came upon the dramatic gorge in the 1500s and named it after the hard wood (palo duro) of the juniper trees he found. But prehistoric peoples and later nomadic tribes had already discovered the canyon’s many resources. During the Red River War in 1874-75, the Comanche and their legendary chief Quanah Parker took refuge in the canyon. Later it became the site of the first cattle ranch in the Panhandle, Charles Goodnight’s famous JA Ranch (still in operation today).
Delve into these illustrious stories at the Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum, located on the campus of West Texas A&M University in Canyon. Covering a huge timeline from dinosaur skeletons to ancient humans to frontier settlement, it’s the biggest history museum in Texas. It’s also one of the best, with copious interactive elements and smartly organized design. There’s a little bit of everything: chuckwagons and windmills, Western-themed lunchboxes, and World War I relics. You can stroll through Pioneer Town, a life-size recreation of an Old West outpost with 26 buildings including a jail, Chinese laundry, and two-seater outhouse. Play cards at the saloon or tap on the telegraph at the depot.
Browse a standout collection of Wild West weaponry, like the Winchester Model 1873 repeating rifle owned by Quanah Parker and a Plains rifle that Charles Goodnight carried as a Texas Ranger. The latter is inscribed with Matthew 6:33: Seek ye first the kingdom of God and His righteousness and all these things shall be added unto you. Not overlooking the Route 66-era classic cars, Native American artwork, and antique oil rig — you’ll need at least two or three hours for a visit.
Near the museum, you’ll find shops and restaurants centered around a cute town square, making Canyon the perfect ideal jumping-off point to explore the outdoor adventures and soaring scenery of the magnificent Palo Duro Canyon.
Explore Canyon
Savor: Java junkies have a must-stop in Canyon: Palace Coffee Co., which won first prize in America’s Best Coffee competition in 2014. Sip a perfectly poured cold brew latte, a golden chai with turmeric, or a bluebonnet breve with torched blueberry sugar. Drop into Bar Z Winery for flights of full-bodied reds and whites made with grapes from the Texas High Plains AVA (American Viticultural Area). Texas Rose Steakhouse reminds you this is still the land of beef, with top-notch steaks and serious ribs. But the real star might be the buttery, fresh-baked rolls and the complimentary cinnamon rolls for dessert. If you’re traveling with kids, they’ll get a kick from the kitschy decor and toy trains at Feldman’s Wrong Way Diner (and the tasty comfort food is a crowd-pleaser).
Brian Kendall
Shop: Peruse a smattering of locally owned shops including the charming Burrowing Owl Books, where a Narnia-style wardrobe leads to the children’s section. Thompson’s has been around since 1908 and is full of eclectic gifts, accessories, and home decor. Stock up on road snacks and homemade fudge at Canyon Popcorn Co. and pick up outdoor adventure gear at Palo Duro Canyon Outfitters & Bike Co. Just east of Canyon, Creek House Honey Farm is an apiary that sells raw honey, beeswax candles, and CBD skin care products. Sample carbonated mead (honey wine) on tap or visit the restaurant for cheese boards and nibbles. On hot afternoons, honey root beer and mead slushies hit the spot.
Brian Kendall
Enjoy: Go horseback riding in the canyon with outfits like Old West Stables, Palo Duro Riding Stables, and Los Cedros Ranch. You can also book jeep tours at Elkins Ranch or zoom across the chasm at the Palo Duro ZipLine Adventure Park. Dallas’ Fair Park may have Big Tex, but Canyon has Tex Randall. Only 8 feet shorter than the State Fair’s icon, he sports the outline of a can of chewing tobacco on his back pocket. Other quirky attractions include an RV museum, America’s tallest wind turbine, and Combine City (the farm equipment equivalent to Amarillo’s Cadillac Ranch). In summertime, don’t miss the musical “Texas,” set in a natural outdoor amphitheater against the canyon cliffs. With dancing, fireworks, and hilltop horsemen, the ambiance is pure Texas magic.
Brian Kendall
Snooze: Sleep where painter Georgia O’Keefe did at the Hudspeth House, a historic bed and breakfast built in 1909 that’s just a few blocks from the town square. Elegant antiques adorn each of the six rooms, which feature original gas fireplaces and hardwood floors. Guests rave about the hearty breakfasts with green chile eggs, fresh-baked scones, and French toast. You’ll also find cute cottages and homes on Airbnb and Vrbo to choose from, as well as comfortable barn-dominiums and funky shipping containers. If you want to stay closer to Palo Duro Canyon (but don’t want to camp), Doves Rest Cabins provide luxury digs right on the rim and some of the most swoon-worthy sunsets in the state.
How to Get There: Leave Fort Worth driving north on I-35W. Exit to Highway 287 (about 10 miles from downtown) and head northwest. Stay on 287 all the way to Amarillo, through Bowie, Wichita Falls, and Childress — about 290 miles. On the eastern edge of Amarillo, Highway 287 merges with Interstate 40. Continue driving west on I-40 for seven miles, then exit to Interstate 27 and go south. Follow I-27 for 14 miles, then take a slight right onto US-87 S. Canyon is less than a mile straight ahead. The trip takes a little under six hours with stops.
