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Mathew Risley st_matty - stock.adobe.com
Diesel Train on Texas State Railroad
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Shilo Urban
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Shilo Urban
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Shilo Urban
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Shilo Urban
Secret fairy gardens, goat yoga, and African markets stocked with smoked snails aren’t what you usually find in small-town Texas. But Palestine isn’t your average small town. Situated about two hours southeast of Fort Worth, this Piney Woods outpost blends rich railroad heritage with quirky pops of personality. Sculptures shaped like bizarre 2D creatures add fantastical splashes of color to the historic downtown. La Croix cross stitch kits for sale share shelves with American flag etiquette books. You can check out the chuckwagon races or source your own pie filling at the pick-your-own blueberry farm. Local festivals celebrate hot peppers, dulcimer music, and dogwood trees, whose lacey white flowers fill the air every spring.
The story of Palestine (pronounced Pal-es-TEEN) runs parallel to the railroad tracks that arrived in 1872, four years earlier than Fort Worth. The one-horse town soon transformed itself into a bustling hub of transportation, home to a major depot and the general offices of the International & Great Northern Railroad. Tens of thousands of passengers traveled north, south, east, and west through the city while railroad execs and new-money merchants built elaborate Victorian houses. Many of these boom-time relics still stand today, including beautifully well-preserved Queen Anne and Classical Revival mansions. Palestine boasts more than 1,800 historic Texas homes within its city limits; only Galveston has more.
Just east of town, the area’s biggest tourist attraction immerses you in its locomotive legacy: the Texas State Railroad. Stretching the 26 miles between Palestine and Rusk, the state’s official train line (built in 1881) journeys through forests of tall pines and hardwoods, across bridges and back in time. Steam and diesel engines pull refurbished passenger cars, which range from open-air bench seating to glass-top dome viewing and a swank VIP caboose. In addition to the standard four-hour trip, themed excursions depart throughout the year, like wine-tasting trips and the jingly Polar Express during the holidays.
You’ll experience a different perspective at Palestine’s Railroad Heritage Center, which showcases a massive model train display that measures 37 feet by 17 feet — it fills an entire room. Donated by a Dallas businessman, the diorama’s delight-inducing details include a two-story outhouse and a Boy Scout patrol on the heels of Bigfoot. If you can’t locate the tiny stegosaurus or the skunks rifling through garbage cans, the museum’s curators will point you in the right direction. In fact, everyone in Palestine seems more than happy to help you out and to suggest a shop or bakery not to miss. Stick around a few hours, and you’ll start running into people you’ve already met — and they might even wax poetic about city politics.
But most of all, everyone just wants to talk about the Palestine they love, a classic Texas railroad town that’s just the ticket for down-home charm.
Shilo Urban
Savor:
Oxbow Bakery’s luscious pecan praline pie is worth the trip to Palestine alone. But show up early, because once they’re out — they’re out. Queen St. Grille dishes out upscale ambience and service to match, with treats like bacon-wrapped quail and house-smoked salmon. Find your caffeine fix at Cream and Coffee and pick up a bottle of local whiskey at TahWahKaro Distilling Company (a Grapevine transplant). Eilenberger’s Bakery (the oldest in the state) has been cramming its fruitcakes full of Texas pecans since 1898, and Pint & Barrel slings crowd-pleasing pub fare like pulled pork sandwiches and blue cheese fondue fries.
Shop:
Most retailers cluster around the downtown core where it’s easy to shop-hop between boutiques and gift stores. Twisted Texas is a fun stop for clothes and sassy accessories with a youthful glow, like fringed fanny packs and pink Converse lace-ups. Color bursts from The Gallery at the Redlands, an engaging whirl of regional artwork. The exterior of Wells Creek Crossing is a bit overwhelming with its maximalist approach, but inside resides a trove of handmade souvenirs and well-priced antiques. If you’re more interested in building your own treasures, duck into Bralys Ace Hardware, which is housed in a converted 1938 elementary school (keep an eye out for the pencil sharpener still attached to the door jamb).
Shilo Urban
Enjoy:
Palestine’s signature event takes place each spring (March 17 to April 2 in 2023): the Texas Dogwood Trails Celebration, which coincides with the Old Time Music & Dulcimer Festival (March 23 to 25). Dainty dogwood tree blossoms decorate the town and the woodland trails at Davey Dogwood Park, where hidden fairy gardens tempt you to look closer. Palestine hosts dozens of special events during the festival, including an art walk, a chili cook-off, tasting dinners, themed train rides, and a live performance at the 1930 Spanish Colonial Texas Theater. Architecture lovers can download a historical driving tour on visitpalestine.com, which starts at the silver-domed Beaux Arts courthouse.
Snooze:
For history in the heart of town, The Redlands Hotel evokes the romance of the railroad era. Owner Jean Mollard runs the iconic inn (originally opened in 1915) with a keen aesthetic sense and a decades-long dedication to its preservation. Rooms are all suites with unique floor plans and kitchens or kitchenettes, and each is adorned with a Christmas tree during the holidays. About six miles north of Palestine is Sabor a Pasion Estate & Vineyard, a secluded B&B with rustic-chic cabins and cottages. It’s also the home of Restaurant Aubergine, an osteria-style establishment headed by the award-winning chef and New Zealander Simon Webster, who brings a creative flair to handmade pasta, rib-eye steaks, and melt-in-your-mouth New Zealand lamb.
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How to Get There:
Palestine is about 2 hours and 15 minutes southeast of Fort Worth (135 miles). There are multiple routes to choose, but the shortest follows U.S. Highway 287. Simply hop on US-287 heading south from downtown Fort Worth, Interstate 20, or Loop 820. Follow US-287 through Midlothian and Corsicana all the way to Palestine.
