Crystal Wise
The new Jon’s Grille on West Berry Street is a dedication, from one Jon to another.
Slated to open September 9 in the spot long occupied by the Aardvark, and The HOP before that, Jon’s comes from Jon Bonnell, local chef extraordinaire and owner of Waters, Bonnell’s, and two Buffalo Brothers restaurants. In a move that can best be described as heartbreakingly kind, he is dedicating the restaurant to another Jon — Jon Meyerson, who ran a nearby burger spot also called Jon’s Grille.
The original Jon’s Grille flourished throughout the late ’80s and ’90s, attracting a wide swath of Fort Worthians, many of whom wrote or carved their names onto the restaurant’s walls. Longtime burger-lovers will fondly recall Meyerson’s signature item: the Carlson burger; Bonnell sure does.
“I had many a Carlson there,” he says. “That’s where I met Jon, at his place, probably over a burger. We’d spend a lot of time talking about restaurants, the food, the industry — he was a good friend.”
Tragically, Meyerson was found dead of a self-inflicted gunshot wound in 2001. A family member kept the restaurant open for a time but eventually closed it, making way for the space’s current occupant, the popular Dutch’s Hamburgers.
Last year, when the Aardvark’s landlord reached out to Bonnell about opening a concept in the space, Bonnell snatched it up, happy to have a place to now fulfill a dream he and his brother share: to open their own burgers and barbecue spot.
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In developing the concept, Bonnell thought of Meyerson, his good friend, and decided to resurrect the old name, Jon’s Grille, which, of course, now has double-meaning. “I joke that he spelled his name the right way,” Bonnell says.
Rebuilt from the studs up, the new Jon’s Grille will spotlight burgers and barbecue, with a heavy emphasis on local: Beef for the burgers, a mix of akaushi and angus, will come from the Bonnell brothers’ ranch in Tolar, while brisket for the barbecue will come from various Texas farms.
Burgers will be available as “fatties” (thick patties) or “flatties” (thin patties) in buns or bowls, Bonnell says. Barbecue will initially consist of smoked brisket and sausage (a beef/pork mix), with rotating specials such as pork ribs. There will be sides, too, plus desserts such as hand-spun milkshakes in both kid and adult-friendly varieties and beer — lots of beer, at least 32 taps’ worth of locals and regionals.
Bonnell stresses he’s not trying to resurrect the old Jon’s Grille.
“I’m not trying to reopen it or bring it back,” he says. “That’s not what this is. This is a tribute to someone who made an impact on my life, and I’m lucky and honored to be able to do this.”
2905 W. Berry St.