Real, honest-to-goodness grocery store butchers – artisans really, who cut meat by hand, using ultra-sharpened knives and a good cutting board – have all but disappeared in America.
"Most grocery stores get their meat already wrapped and ready to sell," says Carey Wilson, head butcher at Roy Pope Grocery. Nestled off the bricks of Camp Bowie in Fort Worth's cozy Westside, Roy Pope Grocery retains many reassuring vestiges of a bygone shopping experience where everyone knows your name, each department is lovingly fussed over, and every piece of meat that goes out the door is special, and always hand-wrapped in pristine white butcher paper.
"I didn't start out wanting to be a butcher," says Wilson. "I started out going to culinary school to become a chef. But when it got to the butchering part, I took a real interest. Seemed to me that it wouldn't be as hot of a job as being in a kitchen all day. So I learned to cook first, and then I learned to cut meat."
"I learned the basic cuts at school, but I learned the details here, on the job," says the 16-year veteran of Roy Pope.
"Smoking (meats) is one thing I love to do. I smoke a lot at home – ribs, butts, or I'll throw something on the grill. I learned to smoke meat with my dad, oh, over 25 years ago, when he and I did a lot of competitive cook-offs together. I don't have a fancy smoker, just a plain one, but it's the wood and temperatures that make a difference. Oh, and my special, secret rub. When I'm smoking, I am very into it, getting up at 3:00 a.m. to check the temperatures. My briskets take 18 hours."
Wilson brings this same passion for smoking meats to work. "One of our specialties is making our own smoked sausage. On Thursdays we mix and fill the links. Fridays we smoke them. We also smoke our ribs on Fridays."
Wilson's culinary background serves him well when customers have questions about cooking and grilling. He gladly shares his knowledge, including his technique for grilling the perfect ribeye steak. "All of our meat here is heavy-aged and grain-finished. You don't need anything except salt and pepper and a very hot grill," he advises.
"The thing I enjoy most about cutting meat is the one-on-one with our customers. I love cutting a specific roast for someone, just like they want it. Maybe a standing rib roast or tenderloin roast for a family's dinner table. I know it makes a real difference in that dinner. That's what I like to do."
Roy Pope Grocery
2300 Merrick
Fort Worth, TX 76107
817.732.2863
Carey Wilson'sPerfect Ribeye Steak
"No butter! All of our steaks are exceptional pieces of meat and don't need sauce or butter to cover up their taste. Keep it simple and let the flavor of the meat come through."
- Season steak on both sides with salt and pepper to taste. Preheat grill to a good high heat.
- For medium rare, cook steaks 4 – 5 minutes on each side. Remove from grill and let sit a few minutes before eating.
