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Goldee's Bar-B-Q
2 of 2
Goldee's Bar-B-Q
Barbecue fans will often go to great lengths to satisfy their ’cue fixes. They’ll travel up and down our state’s bumpy backroads, wait in line for unknown — sometimes ungodly — amounts of time, and, food finally in hand, they’ll grab a seat next to complete strangers, social distancing be damned.
In parts small and large, you’ll need to do all of the above to enjoy what is becoming the area’s hottest craft barbecue joint. Recently opened in a 50-year-old building once occupied by long-running Kenneth’s True Pit Bar-B-Q, Goldee’s Bar-B-Q is located on the outskirts of Kennedale, down a swerving backroad scattered with rusty mailboxes and chickens roaming freely. As Fort Worth longtimers would say, Goldee’s is “out in the country.”
Named after the old Ford F-250 the owners used to pull around their first pit, the restaurant comes from a trio of Arlington natives — Jonny White, Dylan Taylor, and Lane Milne, best buds since third grade. Think of them as a barbecue supergroup. All have worked and trained at the best South and Central Texas ’cue joints in the state: Franklin Barbecue, La Barbecue, Truth BBQ, Terry Black’s Barbecue, and Valentina’s Tex-Mex BBQ among them.
But the trio of pitmasters (pals Nupohn Inthanousay and Jalen Heard are owners, too) wanted a spot closer to home, so they snagged the old Kenneth’s building, which dates back to 1968.
“We heard about this spot and just had to have it,” says Taylor. “It has so much character and history.”
Goldee’s features a straightforward menu of Central Texas-style craft barbecue: stunning fatty and lean brisket, healthy-sized pork ribs, turkey, and housemade sausage, along with sides such as pinto beans, slaw, and an old-school potato salad. Sausage comes in two varieties: a pork and beef mix, dotted with jalapeño cheddar, and an all-beef sausage. Rotating weekend specials include beef ribs. Everything is made from scratch, down to the excellent bread.
If the place isn’t a madhouse, Taylor will show you around the mammoth pit room — a nice, personable touch.
“We’d like to think the customer service is as good as the food,” he says. “You may have come here from some far-flung place, waited in line for a while — we want you to walk away happy.”
Goldee’s Bar-B-Q, 4645 Dick Price Road. goldeesbbq.com
