Stephen Montoya
Being raised in the southwest has given me the unique opportunity to try different kinds of nachos in establishments that span from Dallas to Santa Fe, New Mexico. Along my nacho journey there has always been a few staples that every restaurant has as a base to create this crowd-pleasing appetizer. Most places have the obligatory corn chips, beans, a meat choice, cheese, jalapeños, and dipping sauces. Some restaurants will even place a scoop of sour cream and guacamole as a topper over a garnish that rests on a mountain of chips. In essence, it takes a lot to really break away from this tried-and-true formula and make it interesting. So, you can imagine my enthusiasm, when a co-worker told me about a place in Arlington that makes a nacho plate, which is a completely different take on the old Tex-Mex classic. The restaurant is called J. Gilligan’s Bar & Grill and its located at 400 E Abram Street. Everyone I talked to about this place brought up the Irish Nachos. “You gotta try the Irish Nachos,” they would say emphatically, like it was North Texas right-of-passage. “Challenge accepted,” I say.
So, during a busy rainy day this week I felt a rumble in my tummy while I was working on a story near Arlington, when I made up my mind to find this Irish themed establishment. To my surprise this restaurant is right across the street from another establishment I had done a story on about a month ago called Los Molcas Tacos. I’m starting see a trend of great eatery’s in this area.
Upon entering this darkly lit pub, I am greeted by an older gentleman with white hair who kindly tells me to sit anywhere I like. Knowing I will be taking a few photos for this visit I pick a four-top table facing the kitchen that rests under a skylight. After being handed a menu, I notice at the top, in bold type “The ORIGINAL Irish Nachos”. I guess I’m at the right spot I think to myself. And when the server comes back to my take my order, I enthusiastically tell her I want the full order of Irish Nachos. She raises her eyebrow in disbelief for a brief moment but affirms that she’s heard me and assures me it would be right out. I didn’t know what to expect since this was my first experience outside of the nacho norm. But I thought going in blind would give me a surprising perspective. A few minutes later, my server came back to the table with a large porcelain skillet full of cottage fries topped with melted cheddar, bacon bits, and tomatoes. Yes, I held the jalapeños so I wouldn’t end up with heartburn for the rest of the day. Plus, I held the onions, just because, well I don’t like them. Some might say this is sacrilege since I didn’t try this famous plate the way it was meant to be eaten, but I enjoyed it without these items just the same.
My first bite reminded me of a food in New Mexico called pappitas (little fried potatoes). But the little potatoes in this dish were covered with cheddar cheese almost like a casserole. The plate came with a cup of sour cream that added to the bacon bits and chopped tomatoes like finally having the strings come in during an orchestral arrangement; it was awesome. Again, I over ordered since I was starving but surprisingly, I finished the entire plate. Each bite had a hearty fried potato taste that went well with the pairing of cheese. It was a simple offering but effective in reemerging what a plate of nachos could be. And this being an Irish establishment, it played well into the potato motif that surrounds this vibrant culture of people.
The ambience was laid back, which is definitely one of the criteria for an establishment to be called a Hole in the Fort. The service was on point, the nachos were great, and staff was friendly. So, if you find yourself near the entertainment district in Arlington, stricken with a hankering for fried potatoes, then J.Gilligan’s is the place for you.
Holes in the Fort Rating Scale
Ambiance: Out of 5 – 5 (It’s a pub, which is to say it’s a dark place to enjoy spirits and food)
Service: Out of 5 – 5 (Quick to get your order and refill your drink)
Food: Out of 5 – 4 (I only tried one thing on the menu, but it was good.)
Price Point: Economical (The Irish Nachos were only $10.49)
Do: Come on — order the Irish Nachos
Don’t: come with your own preconceived ideas about what a stereotypical plate of nachos might be.
For more information about J. Gilligan’s Bar & Grill click here.
(Holes in the Fort is an ongoing series that highlights some of the city’s best local food spots.)
