Stephen Montoya
It has always been my humble opinion that you don’t really know a place until you’ve tasted the cuisine its people thrive on or in this case, clamor to. In my nearly two years back in the Fort, my mission has stayed the same, hit up all of the city’s hotspots and take a bite of the flavors that make Fort Worthians salivate. One such eatery that has been on my list of musts for a while now has been to stop by an old grocery store turned burger joint at 4901 Camp Bowie Boulevard.
Of course, I’m talking about Kincaid’s Hamburgers. Started out as a grocery store in 1946 by Charles Kincaid, this now bustling eatery has the ambiance and legend that can only come from an area like Cowtown. In fact, Kincaid’s was the first grocery store in the area to split its inventory into specialty departments. Kincaid’s clientele in the mid to late 40s could grab a loaf of bread, can of soup, and take advantage of the store’s full-service meat market overseen by head butcher Ownyel Robert (O.R.) Gentry — a name that would become synonymous with Kincaid’s.
Legend has it that in 1964, O.R. himself began cooking some burgers on a small griddle for the store’s customers, which eventually became the talk of the town. Using only the best cuts of meat, and fresh produce from the grocery store’s shelves, O.R.’s idea caught on like wildfire. Soon after this burger craze hit a fever pitch, the store’s shelves were cut down to countertop height to give customers a place to eat their fresh house-made burgers while doing their grocery shopping. The irony of ironies is that this one-time grocery store eventually evolved into a burger joint backed on the popularity of O.R.’s burgers.
Several years after burgers became Kincaid’s calling card, many a critic and publication hailed this west Fort Worth spot for having the best burgers in America period. This lip service still follows this legendary spot, that still hosts half cut store shelves for patrons to use to eat their fresh-made burgers on.
Stephen Montoya
In fact, Kincaid’s was just named the “Best Burger” at the recent Fort Worth Food + Wine Festival in March for a specialty burger named “Rosemary’s Baby.” This fest-only offering was made with an all-red bacon burger slathered with rosemary-orange-black-pepper-cream cheese and grape-chile jelly. To add to this flavor profile, Kincaid’s owners Jonathan and Christian Gentry, grandsons of O.R., added cayenne and chile flakes to top it off.
Unfortunately, this unique flavor pairing wasn’t on the menu when I walked through the doors at the original Kincaid’s on Camp Bowie. However, what I did see harkened me back to a simpler time, of dime stores and local butchers. The half shelves that I’d read about lined up in a row before I made it to the front counter. Wanting to play it safe, I ordered the bacon burger with a side of fried okra — tried and true favorites anywhere. After getting my drink, a large sweet tea, I noticed that most of the tables were communal. It was like eating at a large family picnic or reunion, because I didn’t know a soul that was sitting next to me. Upon picking up my order I noticed the social norm at these tables was to rip the bag down the middle and use it as a plate.
Stephen Montoya
Not one to knock a long-time tradition, I did just that when I returned to my mid-section seat on the long picnic bench, I’d already staked my claim at. I didn’t waste any time ripping into my bag, which was surprisingly fun. With my first right-of-passage complete it was now time for me to take a bite of my burger. I was surprised by how big the patty was. It wasn’t a small Mc anything. This was a real burger. The fresh fixings added moisture to my every bite, which I would supplement with a fresh piece of fried okra dipped in Ranch dressing from time-to-time.
I watched as other patrons tore into their bags almost feeling their food-time joy through this act turned Cowtown ritual. And it must have caught on, because since this store was transformed into a burger joint, it has expanded to five other locales in the North Texas area, all which are family owned and operated by the Gentry family. Also, with Kincaid’s recent win at the FWFWF, it seems burgers are still apart of the passion that keeps this family business thriving. No joke, this was an awesome experience for the senses. The sights, the sounds, and most definitely the flavors will keep me coming back for another burger soon.
