provided by Toro Toro
Toro Toro dining
I don’t suggest you go this overboard when you go to Toro Toro, but I do suggest you go. One of an impressive group of Latin-inspired restaurants by the international chef Richard Sandoval, Toro Toro adds a new dimension to Fort Worth’s steak scene, much of which resides within blocks of it. But this one has a range of dining possibilities, from tapas-style shared meals to lighter fare and fish, as well as its full wood-burning grill. On a recent visit, we felt inclined to try as much of it as possible.
The custom-built grill itself is unique, one of two like it in the world with a smoke box in the middle and the ability to lower meats down to the coal for added char and smoky flavor.
provided by Toro Toro
Wild Hamachi Crudo
From the chilled and raw section of the menu, we enjoyed the wild hamachi crudo ($17). The thin-sliced pieces of raw hamachi came topped with Fresno chili for a slight spice, sliced yellow gooseberry for sweetness, mint, and crispy fried quinoa for crunch. The clean-tasting dish was drizzled with a thin but flavorful citrus and young Thai coconut sauce.
There’s also an anticuchos section of skewered meats including octopus, which I sampled on a previous visit. These also make an interesting starter, but on this night, we chose the sweet corn empanadas ($12) and the chicharron de camarones ($14).
The plump, handmade empanadas were golden brown and came three to an order, topped with tangy chimichurri sauce and plated with piped avocado cream. The shrimp was an ample order of about eight plump fried shrimp, dusted in rice flour for crunch, topped with pickled peppers and an aji amarillo aioli sauce. Both appetizers were unusual and well executed.
Our dinner companions chose to split several meats from the wood-burning grill section. The Toro Toro Skewer ($120) is a sampler of many menu offerings including Brazilian-style Picanha steak; New Zealand lamb chops; Cusco marinated chicken thigh; and although the menu mistakenly lists Kobe strip loin, it will soon be clarified as dry-aged rib-eye steak. Servers carve the grilled meat tableside, and while the menu says it’s enough to serve two, with appetizers, the signature dish is plenty to serve four.
In a fit of curiosity, and possibly gluttony, we also ordered a 14-ounce, 30-day dry-aged rib-eye steak ($75) to share with the table. The perfect specimen showed up on a cast-iron plate with only garlic-infused sea salt. It was one of the better steaks I’ve found this year in Fort Worth, grilled medium rare, just as requested. And, the simple addition of salt crystals was all that was needed — no toppings or melting pat of butter required.
provided by Toro Toro
Al Carbon
From the Latin-style Texas barbecue section, we also tried the bone-in beef rib “al carbon” ($27). A perfect meal to share, the slow-smoked rib meat is tender with crispy edges and served with warm, white corn tortillas. Three salsas accompany this dish — a chimichurri and a creamy tomatillo and avocado, as well as dots of a tamarind and chipotle sauce decorating the plate.
provided by Toro Toro
Honey Panna Cotta
Please save room for dessert — our table remarkably caught a second wind ordering both the honey panna cotta ($8) and the cinnamon sopapilla ($8). The lightly sweet and creamy panna cotta came plated with honeycomb candy and toasted shortbread crumbs, topped with sour cream ice cream; and a rich ice cream with plump, rum-soaked raisins elevated the liberally dusted sopapilla. Both selections wowed.
Toro Toro
Location: 200 Main St. (inside The Worthington Renaissance)
For Info: torotorofortworth.com
What We Liked: The inventive menu is way more than just meat and potatoes with a side of asparagus.
What We Didn’t: Our side dishes could have used a serving spoon for polite sharing. Seriously. That’s all.
Recommendations: Take friends to share a selection of grilled meats and appetizers — you’ll want to try it all.
