A playful mascot with a Goldilocks beard and lipstick pout greets patrons at the otherwise unassuming Bearded Lady tavern, a relatively new addition to the burgeoning Southside food scene.
Housed in a restored Craftsman bungalow, The Bearded Lady reflects the personality that Magnolia locals have come to expect while offering a refreshing take on the neighborhood gastropub.
Co-owners Eric Clayton and Shannon Osbakken preserved the brick fireplace and dark wood interior to create a relaxed and cozy ambiance, with eclectic and irreverent embellishments that keep the décor from being drab. Plus, their large patio is dog-friendly.
The energetic atmosphere attracts a diverse clientele-not just 20-somethings-for lunch, happy hours and late-night brews and bites. They also serve a Sunday brunch starting at noon.
Beer enthusiasts will enjoy the extensive, rotating craft beer selection, including 30 craft beers on tap and more than 120 cans and bottles from Texas and around the U.S., as well as large format offerings and imports. Their friendly staff is also happy to recommend brew and food pairings.
The menu is compact but far from standard fare, including several options for herbivores. Mini brat corn dogs are a popular choice, but a first-timer would be wise to order the Tamarind Beer Glazed Pork Wings ($9). These tangy, smoky-sweet pork shank bites are so fall-off-the-bone tender, you may forget chicken wings ever existed.
Another winner is the Fried Cactus Strips ($7), a stack of tender strips encased in a golden and citrusy beer batter, dusted with Parmesan and served with a spicy buttermilk Ranch.
For the main event, the headliner has to be the Bearded L.U.S.T. Burger ($11). A half-pound beef (or house-made veggie) patty is stuffed with poblanos and feta, topped with avocado, caramelized onions and a curry aioli, and served on warm brioche. Or pair a brew with The Brat Pack ($10), mini beer brats served three ways: Texas-style with chili and cheese on brioche, traditional with sautéed onions and spicy mustard on an herb roll, and nontraditional with sauerkraut and cinnamon apples on pumpernickel.
location: 1229 7th Ave. at West Magnolia, Fort Worth
for info call: 817.349.9832
price range: $-$$
hours: Mon.-Thurs. 4:00 p.m.-2:00 a.m., Fri.-Sun. 12:00 p.m.-2:00 a.m.
what we like: The environment was eclectic and drew a diverse crowd. The food is excellent, and the beer list is extensive.
what we don't: There wasn't anything to complain about on our visit.
our recomendation: A must is the L.U.S.T. Burger. Vegetarians can even sub the beef patty for a house-made veggie patty.
