Boots: The Sole of Cowtown

The Comeback Kicks

When it comes to boots, Fort Worth was always ahead of the curve.

We’re just gonna come out and say it, cowboy boots are the world’s most iconic footwear. More recognizable than Holland’s wooden clogs, more relatable than Dorothy’s ruby red slippers, and more historically relevant than Air Jordans (apologies, Ben Affleck), the cowboy boot is a first-ballot Hall of Famer in the world of garments and duds. Its silhouette is a global symbol, and not just of Texas, but of America — and the enduring mythos of the cowboy embedded in the human spirit.

Yet, the world outside of Fort Worth abandoned the cowboy boot circa some time after “Urban Cowboy” — the film that had relaunched the cowboy aesthetic into a fad that would eventually go the way of disco. For a 30-year spell, those who rocked boots, Stetsons, and pearl snaps were placed in one of two categories: fan of the kitsch or Texan.

But, this year, with the world’s biggest pop stars going country and biggest influencer dating a cowboy, VOGUE announced, unironically, that the Wild West was having a moment and its biggest breakout star was the cowboy boot. Of course, we of Fort Worth had quite the head start. To us, there was no comeback — the cowboy boot was right here the whole time; they just had to look in the direction of Cowtown.

And our bet: The world’s most iconic footwear is here to stay.

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Taller, Tougher, Pointier: A Short History of Cowboy Boots

While Texas might be the cowboy boot capital of the world, the origins of our favorite footwear come from, well, just about everywhere else.

As Alexander Graham Bell is to the telephone and Thomas Edison is to the lightbulb, the world is to the cowboy boot. That’s right, no single individual can take credit for the invention of this fancy yet functional piece of footwear. It was created collectively, a combination of influences from multiple eras and cultures that brought forth a boot for the cattle trail, the ranch, the dance floor — and the ages.

Mullet boots and wooden heels

Humankind’s earliest boots consisted of separate soles and uppers lashed together up the leg. Spanish cave art from 15,000 years ago depicts a man and woman wearing boots; his are animal hide, and hers are fur. Ancient Greeks donned buskins, mullet-inspired half-boots with boot in the back and open-toed gladiator sandal in front. Romans showed their status by the height of their boots, and Inuit crafted waterproof kamiks from sealskins (with jaunty dog hair decor).

Riding boots required sturdiness and tall shafts, and many equestrian cultures invented unique designs, particularly in Central Asia. Scythians wore untanned leather boots with the fur facing in (the first Uggs) and Genghis Khan conquered half the planet in red leather boots with wooden heels. Riding boots slowly infiltrated Europe, where they birthed three styles that later evolved into cowboy boots.

From golden tassels to silver spurs

First up: Hessian boots, which came to America in 1776 with German mercenaries (Hessians) fighting for England. When Washington crossed the Delaware River for his game-changing surprise attack, his troops defeated Hessian forces. Washington’s victory was all the more spectacular because of the Hessians’ ferocious reputation — and perhaps because of their impressive knee-high boots. With a medium-high heel and tapered toe, the Hessian boot had a curved collar (top) that peaked in front and sported a golden braid and tassel. In Billy the Kid’s famous 1879 portrait, he’s wearing Hessians — alas, with no trim or tassel.

Hessian boots worked well for riding, but England’s 1st Duke of Wellington thought he could improve them. In 1817, he asked his shoemaker to lower the shaft, straighten the collar, and chop off the flashy trim. He lowered the heel and widened the toe, and the new Wellington style soon spread like wildfire among soldiers and gentlemen alike. Finally, Mexican vaqueros had footwear developed from Spanish riding boots, often with silver spurs, tooled leather, and tall, calf-hugging shafts.

When cattle drives began in 1867, Hessians, Wellingtons, and vaquero-style boots were all floating around the American frontier. Many men were ex-soldiers who just wore their military boots from the Civil War. But the cattle trail presented challenging new conditions, so cowboys started asking shoemakers for a different kind of boot.

These boots aren’t made for walkin’

The first cowboy boots were created either in Texas or Kansas. With no real evidence, we’ll never know for sure, so let’s just say Texas. Drawing on cowboys’ input, shoemakers constructed novel footgear designed for long days on horseback in a rough and rugged environment. Tall, thick leather shafts prevented stirrups and saddle straps from chafing, pinching, and bruising the cowboy’s calves and ankles. They protected his legs from brambles and thorns while riding and from rattlesnakes on the ground. High boots were less likely to fill with mud and water during creek and river crossings, and their scalloped collars were easier to pull on. Even that pretty exterior stitching served to keep the shaft upright.

But the most important parts of the boot weren’t about comfort — they were about life and death. The trail presented countless perils: drowning, stampedes, lightning, Indian attacks, and exposure. But out of a million ways for cowboys to die in the West, being thrown off a horse and dragged was the most common. Cowboys frequently rode young, unpredictable horses and did arduous work on tough terrain. If a rider was unseated and caught his foot in the stirrup, the unfamiliar sensation could prompt the horse to panic and bolt. Bad news all around, but cowboy boots gave you a fighting chance. Their high, angled heels helped anchor the rider’s feet in the stirrups and stop his legs from slipping through them if he fell. If the cowboy’s foot did get stuck, his body weight would (hopefully) pull him out of the boot thanks to its loose-fitting shaft. Tapered toes and smooth, treadless soles also allowed for easier dismounting and mounting.

Bootmakers on the Chisholm Trail started catering to cowboys. H.J. “Big Daddy Joe” Justin was one of the first, opening for business in 1879 just south of the Red River. Justin pioneered decorative stitching on the shaft, and his sons would later move the company to Fort Worth. Lucchese, Tony Lama, and Little’s came next. Cowboys preferred custom boots when they could afford them, often with embellishments like cut-out Texas stars and red tops à la Genghis Khan. By 1890, some boot ads already touted their “unique, showy appearance.”

Bring on the bling

As cattle drives ended and Western vaudeville shows began, the practical, no-nonsense cowboy boot slowly evolved into a fashion statement. Hollywood churned out romanticized Western films from the 1930s to ’60s, and cowboy boots became fancier and fancier with brighter colors, intricate inlays, and elaborate sewn-on designs. Very narrow, pointed toes overtook the earlier rounded style, and cowboy boots went mainstream, from city streets to suburban schools — no horse required.

After a resurgence in the 1980s with the movie “Urban Cowboy” and the TV show “Dallas,” cowboy boots have risen again in our post-pandemic era. Beyonce, Louis Vuitton, and Elon Musk are all wearing the boot that won the West. Cowhide leather is still the favorite, or you can choose ostrich, buffalo, snake, stingray, eel, elk, lizard, alligator, and even kangaroo. Pink rhinestones and glitter? Why not? Add some fringe on there, too — and a few conchos and tassels to boot (sorry).

Named the official state footwear of Texas in 2007, cowboy boots are earnestly loved and endlessly reinvented. The smooth, slippery soles that once slid out of stirrups are now adept at two-stepping and scootin’ on the dance floor; the stacked heels well-suited for stomping at the rodeo. And, yes, they’re still perfect for a spin in the saddle. Cowboy boots might pinch and rub at first, but they’ll always make you walk a little taller and stand a little prouder. From tasseled tops to pointy toes and exotic hand-tooled leather, trends will come and they will go — but cowboy boots are forever.

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The Bootmaker

Steven Parker says he can make the most comfortable pair of boots you’ve ever worn. So, what’s his secret?

About three times a month, a local band will pop into Morris Boot Co. and play a few tunes for a small listening party. And, as the band plays, this will be only the second most interesting thing going on in the store. Because whatever Steven Parker’s doing, likely replacing a heel cap for one of the bandmembers who brought his boots with him, will undoubtedly be more captivating.

And this is no knock on the unnamed band — Morris Boot Co. regularly invites local musicians to record songs in their space (check out their Instagram). It’s just when someone is that devoted and excellent at whatever it is they do, one can’t help but be interested. And when that thing happens to be boot making, it’s flat-out absorbing. Of course, Parker’s disarming and friendly disposition might play a part, too. He’s a people person.

“I love interacting with people,” Parker says. “That’s the best thing about boot making, intermingling with people, finding their story, getting to know them.”

For a bootmaker, Parker looks the part. He sports Billy Gibbons-like facial hair, bifocals, and a cowboy hat that rarely comes off. One can hardly call the craft bygone — bootmaking  might even be increasing in popularity as a stable vocation — but Parker does look like he could’ve been sewing patterns into cowhide while herding cattle on the Chisholm Trail.

He looks like he was born to do this. And he admits that the profession was long an itch he needed to scratch.

“I always liked something about building boots. I was always fascinated with them, and I’ve always owned several pair,” Parker says. “I ignored [the desire to do boot making full time] for years. I did framing, painting houses, yard work, building fences.”

Parker was born and raised in Fort Worth.

“I grew up working in the Stockyards down in North Main when it was an old auction barn,” Parker says. “That’s where I worked most of my life right there. That’s where I started doing leather work.”

One day, a guy named David Kelly happened to walk by Steven as he was tooling some leather.

“He told me, ‘Man, you’re pretty good with your hands. You ever thought about making boots?’ And I’ve never looked back.”

Parker would then go with Kelly to XIT Ranch in the Texas Panhandle, where Kelly taught Steven everything he needed to know about building boots. An apprenticeship, of sorts.

After returning to Fort Worth, Parker eventually started working for what he calls “this other big boot company.” It was then that he met John Morris, a student at TCU with a mutual admiration for quality custom boots. “He would come in there and work for free just to learn how to make boots,” Parker says. “He loved boots, and when you talk to him, he’d get animated like I do.”

Once the boot company Parker had been working for left town, he’d approach Morris with an idea. “I told him, ‘Man, let’s make some boots.’ So, here we are.”

Parker’s been making boots at Morris Boot Co. for 14 years and arrives at the shop most mornings at around 5 a.m. The deal he’s worked out with Morris sees Parker handling the bootmaking  and Morris the business side of things.

They work out of a quaint shop in the shadow of Dickies Arena, its outdoor sign slightly obscured by telephone poles. It’s not hard to miss, but that hasn’t stopped them from attracting new business. No doubt through word of mouth. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better boot in Fort Worth, which Steven chalks up to his obsession with minute details.

Whatever the reasons, which there are likely many, he’s made a lot of happy boot owners.

“It’s incredible to see their faces when they put their boots on for the first time,” Parker says. “Sometimes I have to adjust my hat brim ‘cause it gives me the big head. I love watching people be happy.”

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Western Expression

Sporting custom cowboy boots is akin to having a work of art on your feet. And it’s a work of art that’s equal parts bootmaker and boot wearer. If you’ve got a creative itch that needs some scratching, have fun mixing and matching below to fashion a boot that speaks to you.

The Endless Possibilities

A custom boot comes with more options than an F-150.

Leathers: One leather for shaft (typically cowhide) and one for vamp (see below)

Toe: Square, LW, hog nose cutback, medium round, big round, 3/8 cutback

Heel: 2” heel (straight), 3” heel (slant), 4” or 5” heel (riding)

Pulls: Ear pulls or pull holes

Stitching color: There are usually six to eight rows of stitches, and you can pick a different color for each row.

Edge dressing: Can be natural, medium brown, chocolate, or black.

Sole: Crepe sole or leather sole with sole saver

Sewing pattern: Anything you think will look good on a boot — the shaft is your canvas.

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Hide and Seek

What’s the leather that suits your wallet, work, and lifestyle?

American alligator: The softest, most supple, and most expensive leather from which to make cowboy boots. $$$$$, dress

Bull hide: A tough, durable, and relatively inexpensive leather that’s ideal for you workhorses. $, dress and work

Caiman: Entry-level gator and croc leather that’s stiffer than American alligator due to bony scales. $$$, dress

Cape buffalo: Not typically stretched as much as cowhide or bull hide, resulting in a thicker, stronger leather. $$, dress and work

Elephant:* A durable leather that, thanks to strict regulations, is guaranteed to come from an elephant that died of natural causes. $$, dress and work

Giraffe: A fairly stiff leather with a topographical pattern that is ideal for hard work and long use. $$, dress

Nile crocodile: In the gator and croc world, Nile crocodile is the midrange option, being a little softer than Caiman. $$$$, dress

Ostrich: Known for its quill follicles that cause a distinct dimpled pattern, ostrich is a popular option for fancier occasions. $$, dress

Ostrich leg: A small skin known for its distinct pattern, which provides a scaly racing stripe through the center of the vamp. $, dress

Smooth ostrich: Coming from the side of the ostrich hide, this leather lacks the distinct quill markings but grants equal durability and comfort. $, dress

Stingray: One of the toughest, most durable leathers with an eye-catching granular pattern to boot. $, dress

Suede pig: While a very thin leather, pig is dense and not a fragile fabric, making for a great all-around boot. $, dress and work

*Don’t polish or apply cream to elephant leather.  Instead, wash them with glycerin soap.

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3 Tips to Make Boots Last Forever According to Steven Parker

1. “Your boots will dry out just sitting in the closet. Every couple months, you need to cream them. Except for exotic leathers. Don’t worry about those.
2. “Replace your heel cap, the rubber on your heel, when it’s worn off to the point of being close to the leather.”
3. “Replace your sole when it gets soft, and you start seeing the strings around the bottom edges.”

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The Art of Construction at Morris Boot Co.

There are 224 steps to making a handmade pair of cowboy boots. Yes, sir, that’s enough to fill a whole dang textbook. It’s no wonder a pair of these kicks takes six months to complete. Fortunately, with the help of Steven Parker at Morris Boot Co., we were able to whittle everything down to eight essential steps.

1. Measuring

The first and most crucial step. According to Parker, “If you don’t get it right, it ain’t gonna fit.” Includes seven measurements of the foot and two of the calf.

2. Pattern-making and cutting material

Using measurements, draw panels that that will become shaft (top) and vamp (material over foot) on cardboard and cut out. Create sewing pattern on shaft. “This is where you show the customer’s personality,” Parker says. Transfer cardboard cutouts to materials.

3. Sewing material, pattern, and inlays

Glue the shaft panel on the inlays and sew together. Sew customer-designed pattern on glued panels. According to Parker, the most time-consuming step of cowboy boot construction is pattern sewing.

4. Construction of the boot and putting all panels together

Sew vamp panels to shaft panels and side seam. Sew ear pulls on at this point, as well.

5. Building of the last (foot)

Taking the foot measurements and the preferred toe style, use the appropriate last, which is essentially a wooden foot, and sand it so to become tailored to the wearer’s foot.

6. Wrapping and welting

Wrap vamp around and put an insole on the last and cut the channel, then sand down where toe box meets inside liner. Sew the welt around toe for added layer of water resistance.

7. Shank, bottom, sole, and heels

Take nails, big nails, and bend them to the curvature of the instep. The nails are important because they serve as rebar and give the boot body. According to Parker, “If you don’t have [nails in your instep], your boot will collapse.” Add and shape bottom, sole, and heel.

8. Finish work

Fine-tuning and the final touches. “I call this the wow factor,” Parker says. “If they see little things wrong with it, that’s the only thing they’re gonna see.” Last thing: Put in shaft shaper and hit it with stretching compound (50/50 rubbing alcohol and water). This will take all wrinkles out and form it to the shaft shaper.

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Where to Get Your Kicks

A good pair of boots should last you forever, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have options. Whether it’s your first or your 15th pair, you can’t go wrong with these bootmakers.

City Boots

The quintessential cowgirl boot. With long uppers, feminine stitching patterns, and the occasional heart-shaped cutout, we’d bet the house there isn’t a better boot for a girls’ night out. Whether in the Stockyards or Times Square, these versatile kicks can hang in any city at any time of day or night. And their offerings continue to expand as they enter the Houston and Austin markets.

Known for: The cowgirl boot

3612 W. Vickery Blvd. | cityboots.com

Justin Boots

Justin has been in the boots game long enough to be an early adopter of decorative stitching, using the technique to stiffen the leather of the boot’s upper. Justin was based in Gainesville at the time and moved to Fort Worth in 1925. Though the company was sold to Berkshire Hathaway in 2000, and its manufacturing is in El Paso, Justin remains headquartered in Cowtown.

Known for: Sponsoring the PBR

717 W. Vickery Blvd. | justinboots.com

M.L. Leddy’s

When M.L. Leddy’s celebrated its 100th birthday in 2021, Texas Highways published an article that described the custom bootmaker as the “Rolls Royce of boots.” While you are ponying up for expertly crafted footwear, few bootmakers are as iconic and as much a status symbol as M.L. Leddy’s. And they’ve earned that distinction.

Known for: Being the “Rolls Royce of boots”

2455 N. Main St. | leddys.com

Morris Boot Co.*

Located across the street from Dickies Arena on Montgomery Street, Morris Boot Co. is one of two custom boot shops within a couple hundred yards of one another. Morris can make about any boot you want, so don’t be shy about your ideas. The tiny shop is known for the friendliness of its employees, top-notch craftsmanship, and attention to detail, we doubt they’ve ever had a sour customer experience.

Known for: Attention to detail | 2006 Montgomery St.

Old Gringo

While the brand was established in 2000, Old Gringo didn’t move permanently to Fort Worth until 2021, when it opened its shop in the Stockyards. Their boots, considered fashion forward, have a distinct style and exist in the space between horse people and motorcycle people. Not a bad space to occupy, and their products are of high quality.

Known for: Fashion-forward design

140 E. Exchange Ave. | oldgringoboots.com

R Watson

Hopping from Nocona to Lucchese to Justin Boots — eventually becoming president of the latter — it’s safe to say Randy Watson knows a thing or two about boots. Watson’s decision to put his name on the brand means more than a simple seal of approval. It’s been around five years, and its reputation as a solid bootmaker continues to grow.

Known for: Comfort

10803 FM 1902 | rwatsonboots.com

Ramblin Trails Custom Boots*

The other Montgomery Street custom boot shop, Ramblin Trails also carries a wide range of stock boots in different leathers, dyes, and stitching patterns. These kicks begin at the reasonable price of $595, and everything is made in-house. On the custom side, their devotion to tailoring the boot to the buyer’s feet echoes their neighbors at Morris Boot Co.

Known for: A tailor fit

2009 Montgomery St. | ramblintrailscustomboots.com

Rod Patrick*

Few boots, just based on aesthetics alone, look as well-crafted as a boot from Rod Patrick. Just take a gander at the storefront, where they have an impressive collection of boots that range in styles, colors, leathers, and more. The bootmaker also offers custom design in case you don’t find anything in the showroom to your liking — or you just want some custom boots.

2900 West Sixth St. | rodpatrickboots.com

*Made in Fort Worth

Boots Required

These places and events don’t really require one to wear boots; we just don’t want anybody to feel out of place.

• Billy Bob’s Texas
• Cowtown Coliseum
• Benbrook Stables
• The Fort Worth Stock Show
• and Rodeo
• NCHA World Finals
• PBR World Finals