The Fort Worthian’s Guide to Time Travel

Hi folks! My name’s Zeno, and I’m here to help you make the most of your trip back in time to Fort Worth, Texas. If it’s your first time-traveling adventure, don’t worry — it’s completely safe,* and this handy guide provides the accurate historical information you need to plan the perfect vacation. We cover it all, from hotels and restaurants to sightseeing and nightlife. You’ll also find insider tips about what to pack, where to shop, and how to avoid common dangers. Whether you’re taking a weekend getaway to the Wild West or a two-week vacation to the turn of the 20th century, our expert advice will help you experience the authentic spirit of the era.  So, grab your bags, buckle up — and get ready to travel through time!

Your transtemporal traveling buddy,

ZENO

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DESTINATION: OCT. 21, 1878

WHY GO? Experience a true Wild West adventure at a rough-and-tumble cowboy hot spot on the Chisholm Trail. The neighborhood of Hell’s Half Acre offers round-the-clock entertainment, from shooting galleries to all-in-one saloons with gambling, dancing, and “sporting women” under one roof. Located roughly where the Water Gardens and Convention Center are today, it’s not for the faint of heart. Some travelers may prefer the slightly more respectable scene closer to the courthouse. 

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

El Paso Hotel. With walnut furniture and gas lighting, the accommodations inside the city’s only three-story building are some of the best in Texas. Its billiards parlor is a major gathering place for local gentlemen, and rooms on the second floor come with a free show of Madame Lee’s brothel next door. (Fourth and Main)

Peers House. Guests enjoy well-furnished rooms with good ventilation, although flies may be a problem. There’s a reliable water supply, and the stagecoach to Fort Yuma stops one block away. The restaurant here features a true rarity: female waitstaff. (Fifth and Rusk, now known as Commerce)

Mansion Hotel. Home to the first bathtub in the city, this grand hotel has a quiet atmosphere despite its central location on the streetcar route. It’s a short walk to the telegraph station, and the dining room serves three meals daily. Discounts are available for theatrical people and business travelers. (Fourth and Rusk)

DRINKING AND DANCING

Red Light Saloon. Savor some rot-gut whiskey in this clapboard den of iniquity, which has 20 private rooms for “dates” with the working girls. Attracting hundreds of people on busy nights, it’s the town’s hottest (and most homicidal) dance hall. Watch for pickpockets, thieves, and worse: one-third of all arrests for major crimes take place here. (Hell’s Half Acre)

First & Last Chance. Ideal for over-imbibers, this saloon allows its guests to pass out in the middle of the floor; the accommodating barman will simply drag your body into a backroom to sleep it off. He will also handle your bankroll for the entire night if you plan on going toe-up. Spitting on the floor is also permitted. (Hell’s Half Acre)

Waco Tap. You can really whoop it up at this dance hall and honky-tonk, located near the Seventh Street ravine on the city’s eastern edge. Cowboys can park their herds across the river and get a room-temperature beer without going into town. With no neighbors to worry about, expect plenty of screaming and violent bedlam. If this bar sounds too fancy for you, try the Local Option, which advertises “the worst liquors, poorest cigars, and miserable billiard tables.” (Seventh and Grove)

SHOWS AND ENTERTAINMENT

Theatre Comique. Enjoy rowdy “leg operas” with costumed chorus girls dancing the French can-can in true Parisian style (with nothing underneath). Jugglers, singers, and comedians entertain between acts, and the balcony offers excellent people-watching. Don’t be alarmed if the cowboys start shooting — it’s pretty standard. (Eighth and Houston)

Centennial Theater. A step up from the Theatre Comique but still quite seedy, the Centennial boasts sturdy wooden walls that will stop most stray bullets. Special touches include a boardwalk, glass-paned entrance doors, and gas lanterns that are as hot as they are dangerous. A gallery of “actresses” encircles the first floor. (Second and Main)

Evans Hall. This respectable playhouse hosts honest-to-God operas featuring dozens of singers and a live orchestra. Comedic musicals and parodies are the most popular, like “La Perichole” and “Les Cloches de Cornerville.” (Second and Houston)

GAMBLING

Cold Spring Horse Track. In addition to impromptu horse racing down Main Street, you’ll find intense betting at the city’s official track and grandstands. During tournament competitions, riders perform courtly gestures before attempting to lance a sequence of dangling rings at full gallop. (2 miles north on Cold Spring Road)

Cattle Exchange Saloon. Smoke Havana cigars while you play faro, poker, and billiards at this high-price gambling parlor. Cowboys and drifters are discouraged from entering, but don’t let your guard down. First-class poundings are frequent, and it’s not unheard of to have part of your face bitten off during a brawl. (Second and Main)

Tivoli Hall 

At this workingman’s bar, you don’t have to stop gambling when you get hungry — they serve free hot lunches all day (try the ham and beans). Tivoli is a favorite of German immigrants for its fresh beer and top-notch variety shows with German musicians. (Second and Houston)

SHOPPING 

Buy guns at A.J. Anderson’s and sundries at Daggett & Hatcher mercantile, including opium, laudanum, and morphine.

GETTING AROUND 

Two mule-drawn streetcars run the length of Main Street; you’ll know it’s coming when you hear the brass bells on the harness. You can also rent a horse (and catch up on gossip) at Dugan’s Wagon Yard. 

DANGERS AND ANNOYANCES 

Watch for free-running hogs, salesmen blocking traffic, train robberies, malaria, yellow fever, and cowboys “taking the town” — yelling and wildly riding down Main Street while emptying their pistols into the air and/or at random targets. 

WHAT TO PACK

A six-shooter (at minimum) and a good blade for close-range fighting. It’s incredibly muddy when it rains and dusty when it doesn’t, so extra clothing will come in handy: Victorian or cowboy attire.

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DESTINATION: Sept. 2, 1901

WHY GO? Welcome to the era of paved streets, electric lights, and indoor plumbing — in some places, anyway. Explore a growing city that has one boot in the frontier and the other pointed toward a cosmopolitan future. Business is thriving, cattle is king, and the murder rate is near zero. But the spirit of the Wild West is alive and well; just ask Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, whom you might run into in Hell’s Half Acre.

WHERE TO STAY & EAT

Worth Hotel. Hobnob with high society at this fashionable hangout, centrally positioned between the courthouse and T&P Depot. The five-story building sports dramatic arched windows and rusticated stone, and August’s department store is located on the ground level. All rooms have windows, carpeting, and oak furniture. (Seventh and Main)

Richelieu Hotel. This “fireproof” brick hotel offers first-class service and 112 airy accommodations. The café/confectionary here is known for its chili; rumor has it that the recipe’s secret spices come from the Philippines. (15th and Main)

Metropolitan Hotel. Suited for rich cattle barons, the Met has glamorous gold spittoons and hand-carved mahogany. Its white-tablecloth restaurant is a high-drama hideaway with Corinthian columns and vaulted ceilings. Every room has hot water, and the Santa Fe Depot is only a few blocks away. (Ninth and Main)

DRINKING AND ENTERTAINMENT

Greenwall’s Opera House. Watch Shakespeare’s “Hamlet” or “Richard III” at this ritzy cultural hub, along with ballets, burlesque, and Western dramas — often starring top thespians like Sarah Bernhardt and Edwin Booth (John Wilkes’ brother). Dress to the nines: ball gowns, top hats, and tails. Women of ill repute should sit in the balconies. (Third and Rusk)

White Elephant Saloon. This renowned gambling parlor has a 40-foot onyx bar and a genteel restaurant serving fresh oysters and lobster. The second-floor clubrooms are filled with cigar smoke and high-stakes gambling, with a telegraph connection for betting on prizefights and ballgames across the country. Other diversions include cockfighting and the occasional séance. (Sixth and Main)

Standard Theater. Find variety shows and vaudeville at this upmarket venue with electric footlights and wine rooms. House rules prohibit the exposure of bare anatomy and coarse vulgarities, like swearing and women smoking. (12th and Rusk)

THINGS TO DO

Natatorium. Take your weekly bath at this magnificent rococo-style building that has a 95-foot swimming pool and three types of baths: tub, Turkish, and Russian. You can also choose an “electrified bath” in artesian waters, which may or may not alleviate paralysis and nervous prostration. Swim lessons are available, and the pool and baths are free for guests renting rooms upstairs. (Third and Rusk)

Electric Streetcar. Riding the trolley is THE thing to do — perfect for first dates or trips to the Opera House in your formal attire. Numerous streetcar lines fan out from downtown into residential neighborhoods, islands of commerce, and the open countryside. (Main Street)

Grunewald Pavilion. Built to service trolley riders, this wooden dance hall is the go-to destination for music, parties, and cookouts with cold beer. It hosts everything from cakewalks and carnivals to lavish balls and patriotic celebrations. The saloon is in the basement. (Samuels Avenue)

SIGHTSEEING

Santa Fe Depot. Six rail lines run out of the new Union Station, a Beaux-Arts beauty striped with red bricks and white limestone. Step inside to see the decorative stained glass, marble floors, and soaring vaulted ceiling. (Jones Street)

Tarrant County Courthouse. Water your horse (and yourself) at the fountain in front of this impressive edifice. Made of pink granite, it’s far more extravagant than most contemporaneous state capitols — and it had a price tag to match, which is why all the county officials responsible for its construction were promptly voted out of office. (Weatherford and Main)

Wheat Building. Take the elevator to the rooftop garden for panoramic views — this is one of the city’s tallest buildings. Eat dinner and be entertained by bands, comedians, and stunt dogs on stage. (Eighth and Main)

STOCKYARDS 

Covering more than 100 acres, this maze-like conglomeration of wooden chutes and pens holds 12,000 cattle. In springtime, try to catch the Texas Fat Stock Show on the banks of Marine Creek.

PICNICS

Enjoy this trendy pastime amid the formal gardens and driving paths at City Park (on the river just south of Seventh Street). Hermann Verein Park is another pretty waterfront retreat; its open-air pavilion and German beer garden are situated across the river from the courthouse.

DANGERS AND ANNOYANCES

Watch where you’re walking on Main Street. Accidents between horse buggies and electric streetcars are common (as are big piles of fresh manure).

WHAT TO PACK

Victorian clothing with very high and stiff collars, a hand fan to swat away flies, and perfume to cope with noxious livestock odors.

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DESTINATION: Nov. 5, 1955

WHY GO? Feel the rush of post-war optimism and prosperity in a bona fide epicenter for national defense and aircraft production. The suburbs are booming, automobiles reign supreme, and progress seems unstoppable. But it’s not all sock hops and soda fountains; tensions about integration, communism, and nuclear annihilation are simmering. Immerse yourself in the electrifying energy of this iconic age.

WHERE TO STAY

Western Hills Hotel. Stay in a showstopping resort complex with a golf course, heliport, and heated pool with cabanas. Its Mediterranean-style architecture and pink adobe walls evoke a vacation vibe, and all the rooms and cottages have wall-to-wall carpeting and foam-cushioned beds. (Camp Bowie Boulevard)

Hotel Texas. An oldie but goodie, this historic grand hotel makes a great first impression with its elegant, block-long lobby. Each of its 600 rooms has a private bath and a radio with six stations. Special touches include Colgate’s Cashmere Bouquet soap and American-made china in the restaurant. (Eighth and Main)

El Patio Tourist Lodge. This budget-friendly motor lodge provides no-nonsense accommodations with hot showers for the “discriminating transient.” Blue shutters and orange awnings add a cheerful look to the white stucco building, and a small grill room serves chicken dinners. (E. Lancaster and Highway 80)

WHERE TO EAT

Bamboo Inn. Look for the eye-catching tower with “BAMBOO” written down it to find this landmark restaurant, offering authentic Cantonese cuisine, chop suey, and steaks. It’s owned by the family of Ng Wing, who introduced Chinese food to the city. Keep an eye out for Gene Autry and Bob Hope. (Camp Bowie Boulevard)

Cross Keys. Prime rib is the specialty at this fine dining establishment, a sophisticated yet cozy affair with candelabra chandeliers. Request a table by the fireplace and feast on country club-inspired dishes like lobster thermidor and chateaubriand. (Eighth and Pennsylvania)

Carlson’s Drive-Inn. For the young and young at heart, this eatery is the happening place on Saturday nights. But don’t just cruise the parking lot (although many people do) — try the Bakon Burger, a chargrilled bacon cheeseburger with Carlson’s special sauce. Wash it all down with a vanilla soda or chocolate malt. (University Drive)

SHOWS AND ENTERTAINMENT

Show Row. Catch a screening of “Rebel Without a Cause” at this five-block stretch of downtown, home to three major theatres: the Palace, the Worth, and the Hollywood. The Hollywood Theatre has an exquisite marble staircase and is your best bet for movie galas and world premieres; we like the opulent Worth Theatre for its 3,000-person capacity and Egyptian-themed decor. (Seventh Street)

Mansfield Road Drive-In Theatre. You have many drive-ins to choose from, but this one has a kiddie playground and in-car bottle warmers. Every vehicle gets its own speaker — just look for green lights to identify available parking spaces. Don’t forget to grab some Junior Mints from the snack bar. (Mansfield at Seminary)

Northside Coliseum. Big bands and Grand Ole Opry acts perform at this blue-roofed arena, which also hosts circuses, carnivals, and sports tournaments. Listen to country-western music every Saturday night and watch wrestling every Monday. (Stockyards)

DANCING AND NIGHTLIFE

Casino Ballroom. While Lake Worth’s bathhouse and amusement park are considerably run-down, the ballroom is experiencing its second wind. Some of the biggest bands in the country entertain thousands in this 31,000-square-foot venue. (Lake Worth)

Skyliner Ballroom. Indulge in upscale debauchery at this wild dance club with a black-tie orchestra and glamorous mirrors all around. Relax on a plush pink couch with a glass of wine or take a spin around the maroon-colored dance floor. Be sure to check out the mural of the city skyline by the entrance. (Jacksboro Highway)

2222 Club. For gambling thrills, head to the Four Deuces on “Thunder Road” to play blackjack, craps, and roulette — with free cigars to keep you going. The steaks are excellent, the liquor is top-shelf, and the dancing goes all night. High rollers only. (Jacksboro Highway)

SHOPPING

You’ll find numerous department stores for every budget downtown, from affordable Everybody’s to upscale Stripling’s. Leonard’s supercenter covers six blocks and sells a little of everything; wear shoes if you want to ride the newfangled escalators. 

FAMILY FUN

Visit Queen Tut the elephant and Pete the Python at Forest Park Zoo (if it hasn’t escaped again), and then hop on the Tiny T&P miniature train for a scenic 5.5-mile run through Forest and Trinity parks. 

DANGERS AND ANNOYANCES

Brawling is all part of the fun at the dive clubs on Jacksboro Highway, where there are frequent fistfights and knife fights (and the occasional car bombing).

WHAT TO PACK

Hats and gloves are essential for ladies for all but the most casual occasions, and you’ll probably also need nylons and a girdle. Suits, sports coats, sweaters, and slacks are solid bets for men.