Venture Through the City of Boerne

Visit a place founded by German intellectuals known as ‘freethinkers’ who clung to the Latin ideals of a utopian society.

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"Life would be an endless bleeding were it not for poetry,” so said the German-Jewish writer and philosopher Karl Ludwig Börne, namesake of the Hill Country town of Boerne (pronounced: BUR-nee).

Naming a rugged frontier outpost after such a melodramatic artiste might seem a bit odd until you realize the settlers themselves were German intellectuals who listened to Mozart, read classical literature, and discussed political theory — in Latin.

Known as freethinkers (or Latinists for their love of the language), they emigrated to Texas after Europe’s 1848 revolutions to escape the despotism and class privilege they despised. They founded several “Latin settlements” based on utopian ideals of tolerance and human rights in the Hill Country, including Boerne. Along with farm tools and muskets, they brought musical instruments, oil paintings, and trunks full of books.

As iconoclastic humanists, freethinkers didn’t always get along with other Texans or even with other Germans. They opposed slavery, temperance laws, and religious instruction in schools; they advocated for equal rights for women and the abolition of capital punishment. Well-educated and cosmopolitan, the freethinkers were an unconventional mix of poets and engineers, anarchists and atheists, scientists and revolutionaries — and they knew how to have a good time. Bearing bottles of fine wine, they would walk for miles to gather together in a neighbor’s cabin for an evening of music, singing, and dancing on the edge of the Texas wilderness.

While you won’t hear many conversations in Latin today in Boerne, the heritage of the German settlers lives on in the hamlet’s vibrant community spirit and buoyant festivities. Boerne feels alive and active, especially along the “Hill Country Mile” — a 1.1-mile stretch along the Hauptstrasse (Main Street) that’s lined with eclectic boutiques. Many are housed in restored historic buildings, architectural gems with ample country-town character and charm. Whether you’re shop-hopping or following the trail alongside spring-fed Cibolo Creek, all paths seem to lead back to the grassy Main Plaza. With pondside shade trees and a storybook gazebo, it’s the hub of community events, which really kick into high gear for the holidays in November and December.

Christmas concerts and markets abound, along with a wassail tasting, cello choir, and menorah lighting. You can revel in Victorian-style merriment at Dickens on Main (every Thanksgiving weekend), when costumed carolers, street performers, and old-world vendors take over the town. Tons of twinkling lights and holiday decor make it feel like a real-life Hallmark movie, so, ladies, keep an eye out for your junior high crush, a scruffy-yet-lovable renegade who is really a prince in disguise. “Snow” falls on Main Street as shoppers browse art and antiques, nibble on cinnamon pastries, and snap a photo with Santa. Musicians jam, dancers twirl, and the hot mulled wine flows freely … and somewhere, the freethinkers are smiling.

EXPLORE BOERNE 

Savor: You can’t go wrong at Peggy’s on the Green for mesquite-smoked steaks and fancy Southern eats in an elegant-yet-unfussy atmosphere. Savor seared salmon with poblano cream or cornmeal-dusted soft-shell crab and get there early to sip a margarita on the creekside wraparound porch. The Creek Restaurant also has water views and top-shelf seafood, including Snapper à la Creek with meunière sauce. True to its German roots, Boerne has brewpubs galore from The Dodging Duck (giant pretzels and sausages) to 28 Songs (totchos and sammies) and Cibolo Creek Brewing Company (bier bun potato rolls filled with browned goat, cabbage, and cheese). Speaking of cheese, visit the newly opened Rivulet Kitchen for halloumi skewers, tempura camembert, and artisan crostini with roasted tomato and burrata.

Shop: Walkable and easily accessible, Boerne’s Hill Country Mile is shopping central with quaint historic storefronts and cool modern boutiques. Local favs include Handmade on Main, which carries the creations of 24 Texas artisans, and The Dienger Trading Co. for unique home goods and gifts (plus a bakery and bistro). Discover a cozy haven of high-end linens and handcrafted body care at Cielo Mercantile or browse the fine art collections at Carriage House Gallery and Gallery 195. Bedeck your noggin with a bespoke topper at the hat bar at J.Forks Design; schedule a consultation with its hatter to create a custom headpiece. Stock up on spicy-sweet treats at Fickle Pickles and stroll through Flashback Funtiques for a look at its kitschy kitchenware and vintage jukeboxes.

Enjoy: Surrounded by some of the most picturesque countryside in Texas, Boerne’s a convenient base for outdoor adventures amidst the tree-covered hills, limestone cliffs, and pristine streams. Explore otherworldly formations of stalactites and stalagmites at two impressive caves, Cascade Caverns and Cave Without a Name, which both offer guided tours. Cibolo Nature Center has six miles of trails under cypress canopies and alongside spring-fed marshes full of wildlife. Back in town you can spot turtles and ducks at River Road Park, a lovely creekside path in the middle of everything. If history is more your thing, pick up a free historical walking tour map at the Visitor’s Center — and try to catch a performance of the 164-year-old Boerne Village Band.

Snooze: Boerne has an impressive array of accommodations for its size thanks to the many San Antonians who make regular trips. Classic charm doesn’t get better than the suites and cabins at The Kendall, a restored/expanded stagecoach stop from 1859 with a landmark location between Cibolo Creek and the town plaza. Also downtown: The William, a recent addition with New Orleans-style cast-iron balconies that overlook Main Street. Short-term rentals cluster around this area, from cottages and “treehouses” to apartments and entire homes. Chain hotels hang close to the interstate, or you can head out into the surrounding countryside for ranch-style lodges and resorts.

How to Get There: Drive south from Fort Worth on the Chisholm Trail Parkway for 27 miles to Cleburne and turn right onto US-67 S. Continue for 38 miles, then turn left onto TX-220 S in Bluff Dale. In 12 miles, hop on US-281 S in Hico. Stay on US-281 S for the next 160 miles, passing through Hamilton, Marble Falls, and Blanco. At Bulverde, turn right onto TX-46 W and drive 21 miles to Boerne. The entire trip is about 260 miles, roughly 4 hours and 45 minutes with no stops.