Crystal Wise
Before Ellis Aldridge bought Coker Hats in the late 1960s, he was a customer, making his first purchase at the store then on Throckmorton Street, part of the property where today sits the Fort Worth Convention Center.
He went in to buy a hat and settled on a 3X beaver, as the suggestion of then-owner Worth Coker.
The hat cost him $15.
“Well, I was looking after some calves, and I was wearing that hat,” he recalls. “And it came a big rain and, poof, that hat just collapsed and flopped around my head.
“I went back down there and asked him, ‘Do you have anything better than this?’ He said, ‘Yeah, a 7X beaver.’ I asked him how much it was, and he said $35. I asked him, ‘Will it do the same thing this one did?’ He assured me it wouldn’t.”
And it didn’t. Moral of the story: Beaver fur is the favored material because the hair interlocks well to create a dense, better weather-resistant material.
Most hats are made of some blend of beaver, including silver belly, the fur from a beaver’s belly, and rabbit.
Hats are rated through a so-called X-factor system that indicates the percentage of fur used in the hat. Hats are graded on a 1X to 10X scale. Hats between 1X-5X are usually made of more hair — or wool — and a tiny amount of beaver, if any at all.
A 10X hat is 100% beaver.
The problem with the rating system is it’s not standardized. One man’s 5X might be another’s 3X.
One caveat: The more beaver in the hat the deeper you’ll have to reach into your bank account.
Etiquette
Rule 1: Never mess with another man’s hat. The hat is very personal property. Touching another man’s hat can lead to trouble, cowboy. Here are some other rules of the range:
When to take your hat off
Any time you enter a building or private home. If the occasion is informal, you may put it back on. If it’s a formal occasion, leave it off. Like a coat, the host will probably have a place for you to store it.
When sitting down at a table for a meal, unless there is not place to safely store it. If you’re sitting at a counter for a meal, you may keep the hat on. A fast-food restaurant? Keep it on.
During the national anthem, Pledge of Allegiance, in church or during prayer. The hat should come off at an indoor wedding or funeral. When in a respectful pose, such as the national anthem, holding your hat over your heart or in your left hand with your right hand over your heart is acceptable.
When you are introduced to a woman. If warranted, remove your hat — by the crown — with your left hand so that you may shake her hand with your right. The same rule applies to a man or woman of the cloth.
When you begin a conversation with anyone.
Note: When removed out of a show of respect, such as for the anthem or an introduction to lady, grasp the hat by the crown and hold it so that the lining doesn’t show.
Crystal Wise
How to remove your hat
Always remove your hat by the crown. If you need to adjust the hat, do so by the crown.
How to Lay Your Hat Down
Cowboy hats are turned upside down, with the hat laying on its brim, when it’s laid down. Setting it down on its brim isn’t good for the crease and cause it to lose shape. A hat stand or coat hook works for temporary storage. Whatever it takes to keep pressure off the brim.
Superstition also is at play.
Never set your hat on the bed. It invites bad luck.
Do’s and Don’ts of Care
How you store the hat will greatly impact the fit and shape. A few tips:
Keep it out of the sunlight. The sun will cause fading and ruin the fit, too. Always store inside and in cool areas.
If your hat has gotten wet from sweat, rain, or snow, never use heat to speed the drying — it can damage the hat. If the hat gets soaked, use a hat retainer or stretcher to set the hat to air dry. This will ensure the hat retains its size and shape as it dries and the fibers tighten up. Use a felt hat sponge to remove rain spots.
When traveling with the hat — and not wearing it — store in a hat box.
Use a hat brush to clean your hat after every wear. Brushes work best on felt but can be used on leather and straw. Start on the left side of the hat and brush counterclockwise so that you’ll brush the crown and brim in the same direction. On the underside of the brim, brush in a clockwise motion.
Note to sweaters: Pay attention to your sweatband. The acidic bacteria in sweat will gradually eat away at the leather sweatband and cause it to rot. Even if it only gets a little sweaty, always clean away sweat using mild dish soap and a damp cloth. After cleaning, leave the hat on a stretcher so the sweatband doesn’t tighten up.
Straw Vs. Felt
A general guideline exists: Wear a straw hat from Memorial Day through Labor Day. The reason: comfort. A felt hat is hot in the summer. And so too in the unofficial Texas season of false fall.
Let weather and comfort be your guide for wearing straw on the warmer spring days preceding Memorial Day and the warmer fall days after Labor Day.
Some prefer a leather or suede hat, though those guys probably aren’t working cattle. Those can be worn year-round, if comfortable.
