Hollywood’s Hats

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When Hollywood was tasked with portraying the wild west on film, no costume decision was more important than that of the hat. Black, brown, large, small, clean, dirty, round crown, pinched crown, etc. The hat was a garment that had to portray the personality of the character and, in many cases, would become ubiquitous with the actors themselves.

Height Matters

Some of the earliest cowboy hats seen in films, such as Tom Mix’s famous 10-gallon tan felt hat, were far from historically accurate. While most cowboy hats today have a 6-inch crown, the crowns of Mix’s hats were customized to exaggerated heights, and their pristine appearance may appear to modern audiences like something ripe for a screwball comedy. However, filmgoers in the 1920s had little frame of reference — films and the Western genre were just kicking off — so the tall crown became a popular, if inaccurate, cowboy hat.

John Wayne often wore a taller crown, such as his iconic portrayal of Liberty Valance in “The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance.” In this film, the Duke is sporting a Montana Pinch.

Tom Mix

Roy Rogers

Hopalong Cassidy, as portrayed by William Boyd

Liberty Valance, as portrayed by John Wayne in “The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance”

Derby Boys (and Lady)

The most historically accurate depiction of cowboy hats in Hollywood will be if characters are wearing the round crown and short brim style of the derby. Yet, most directors prefer to ignore historical accuracy in favor of putting their hero in a hat that would be more palatable to a modern audience. Ultimately, the derby had utilitarian purposes, as it easily stayed on the head through windy conditions while riding a horse. However, in film, characters wearing a derby were often portrayed as city-dwelling intellectuals or, in the case of Bat Masterson, sophisticated yet unassuming gunslingers.

Bat Masterson, as portrayed by Gene Barry in “Bat Masterson”

W.W. Beachamp, as portrayed by Saul Rubinek in “Unforgiven”

Calamity Jane

The Distressed Brim

After years of wear and tear, a hat will begin to take its shape and conform to the demands one puts on it. The brim will naturally bend, and a pinch will naturally occur in the crown where one puts it on and off. Of course, in Hollywood, many of these hats had to be forcibly distressed. This gave the hat a “worn” look, and the characters who donned them were often portrayed as untamed, rebellious, and workman-like.

Lin McAdam, as portrayed by Jimmy Stewart in “Winchester 73”

Dude, as portrayed by Dean Martin in “El Dorado”

Vin Tanner, as portrayed by Steve McQueen in “The Magnificent 7”

Telescope

While today’s audience might associate the telescope style with Breaking Bad’s Walter White, it was once one of the most popular depictions of the cowboy hat in Hollywood. This is somewhat ironic, as, initially, its functionality outweighed its fashion; it was built for hard labor in the sun. However, some actors (or costume departments) put their own spin on the classic style. You might notice that Lee Van Cleef’s Angel Eyes has a wider brim than the standard telescope.

Angel Eyes, as portrayed by Lee Van Cleef in “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly”

Butch Cassidy, as portrayed by Paul Newman in “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid”

Blondie, as portrayed by Clint Eastwood in “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly”

Marshal Will Kane, as portrayed by Gary Cooper in “High Noon”