The Steinbach Haus, gifted to Castroville from the people of Alsace, France, in 1998.
Nestled in the crook of the Medina River about 25 miles west of San Antonio (or one-day’s wagon ride), Castroville represents one of the six flags of Texas that you don’t see very often: France. You’ll notice the unique heritage of the “Little Alsace of Texas” as soon as you arrive; dwellings have distinct sloped mansard roofs and pretty windows with wooden shutters. Many cottages are fachwerk, half-timber construction of lime plaster and rough-cut native stone. The old-world village vibe is quite picturesque, and if it seems to balance somewhere between a French and German aesthetic — that’s because it does.
Old St. Louis Church
Castroville is named after Henri Castro, the pioneer who led a band of settlers to Texas in 1844 from the French region of Alsace. Located east of Paris on the German border, Alsace has switched hands between France and Germany multiple times throughout history. Today, the region evokes the best of both worlds: artful French cuisine served with German efficiency; German orderliness blended with French savoir-faire.
Like many immigrants to the state, the Alsatians were salt-of-the-earth farming folk who were ready to work hard and create new lives for their families. Their handiwork is well-preserved in Castroville, where successive generations have tried to keep the European atmosphere alive. Almost 100 historic buildings fill the tiny hamlet, and many date back to the first decade of its existence — like the Landmark Inn State Historic Site, a riverside way station constructed in 1849 that doubles as a museum and B&B. The 5-acre complex began life as a simple home and roadside store, eventually adding a two-story gristmill, hotel, tavern, and bathhouse. It was an essential stop for stagecoaches and wagon trains heading west from San Antonio … and the last proper bath you’d have for many days.
Explore the Inn’s garden grounds and pick up a map for Castroville’s self-guided walking tour. On the tour you’ll pass more than 50 structures from the mid- to late-1800s, including the city’s first St. Louis Catholic Church. Construction on the stone relic began just nine days after the settlers arrived in 1844. The nearby Burger House dates to the same year and still retains its original cypress floors (though the cheesecloth ceiling is long gone). Spring is the best time to visit Castroville, when bright red poppies bloom in yards and fields — a striking juxtaposition against the town’s rustic barns and houses.
It all comes together at the enchanting Steinbach Haus, a storybook cottage built in the early 1600s in France. The people of Alsace gifted the house to Castroville in honor of their shared connection, and in 1998 it was disassembled and shipped to Texas. Students and volunteer craftspeople from both locations reconstructed the 2.5-story home, which now serves as Castroville’s Visitors Center. Alsatian furnishings from the 19th century augment the fairy-tale ambiance inside, including a carved wooden bed frame that Goldilocks would certainly claim was “just right.”
Across the street is another local landmark, Haby’s Alsatian Bakery. At 50 years old, it’s a baby compared to much of the rest of the town. Try the kugelhopf, a not-too-sweet Alsatian ring cake that’s perfect with coffee for breakfast. You’ll also find French bread and fruit-filled German stollen, along with Texas favorites like cowboy cookies. Pack a basket for a picnic in the poppies or take some treats home as souvenirs from this one-of-a-kind Texas town.
Explore Castroville — Population 3,005
Castroville Poppy House
Savor: Fuel up with a caffeine fix at Magnolia Filling Station, a quaint little coffeehouse in a 1920s gas station — just look for the red vintage pump. Lunchtime hotspot Castroville Café is also a historic gem that’s situated in a beautifully restored 1915 home. Nosh on comfort food favorites like pork schnitzel and roast beef sandwiches but save room for the gooey pecan pie cobbler. True foodies must visit Dziuk’s to try their Alsatian specialties. The multigenerational meat market grinds fresh Alsatian sausage — but you’re here for the parisa, a raw meat appetizer akin to beef tartare that’s made with onions, jalapeños, and American cheese. Eat it fresh and on crackers.
Shop: You can bounce between antique stores and boutiques in compact Castroville; almost everything is located within a few blocks. Firebrand Pottery feels like a French country store that’s stocked with hand-thrown ceramics by Texas artisans. The Rusty Flame Candle Co. sells eco-friendly, soy wax candles along with cozy, vintage-inspired home decor. Discover more goodies at Rhonda J Designs (also called The Barn), from colorful jewelry to Consuela tote bags. And be sure to buzz into BeeSpace. The roadside shop was opened in 2021 by a 16-year-old beekeeper, and his local brush honey is the tastiest around.
Castroville Regional Park
Enjoy: Stretch your legs at Castroville Regional Park, a 126-acre green space just south of town that sidles the clear, blue-green Medina River (a popular swimming hole when it’s hot). Climb the Cross Hill Loop (a one-mile trail) for the views or wander The Garden of Roots, a flower garden shaped like the region of Alsace. Go farther into nature at Paradise Canyon, another riverside escape with tall limestone bluffs. Play a few rounds at Alsatian Golf Club or see it all from above with Skydiving Castroville.
Snooze: Immerse yourself in the past at the Landmark Inn State Historic Site, where the small, sparse rooms offer a backdrop of the river. Each is decorated according to a different era, the 1850s, 1880s, or 1920s. You can also stay at the Henri Castro homestead itself and sleep in the house that Castroville’s founder built in 1844. It’s outfitted with all the mod cons but retains its original character with a stone fireplace, root cellar bedroom nook, and antique furniture. If you prefer returning to 2023 when you sleep, the Hillside Boutique Hotel fits the bill with luxe rooms and a hilltop swimming pool with cabanas. Book a citrus and brown sugar body scrub at the spa and drop into the hotel’s Hillside Texas Bistro for a jalapeño-bacon jam burger and some bourbon pecan pie.
How to Get There: The fastest route takes about 4 1/2 hours and follows Interstate 35 south toward Austin. Just before you reach Georgetown, take Exit 265 for TX-130 S (the loop around Austin). Stay on TX-130 S for 87 miles until you reach Interstate 10, then exit onto I-10 heading west toward San Antonio. In 42 miles, continue onto US-90 W for about 23 miles until you reach Castroville.
